The olive tree, Olea europaea, is a durable evergreen species cultivated for millennia, originating in the Mediterranean region. Its distinctive silvery-green foliage and gnarled trunk structure make it a highly attractive addition to many landscapes. While the tree is known for its hardiness and ability to tolerate drought once mature, successful establishment requires careful planning during the initial planting phase.
Preparing the Site and the Sapling
The first step in planting an olive tree is selecting a site that receives full sun for a minimum of six to eight hours daily. This direct sunlight is necessary for robust growth and helps prevent fungal diseases. Superior drainage is the most important soil requirement, as olive trees are highly susceptible to root rot in waterlogged conditions.
You can test the drainage by digging a small hole and filling it with water to see how quickly it dissipates, avoiding low-lying areas where water naturally collects. Olive trees thrive in a wide range of soil textures, but if your native soil is heavy clay, consider planting on a slight mound or berm to improve runoff. It is best to plant directly into the native soil rather than amending the entire planting area, which can create an undesirable “pot effect.”
To prepare the planting site, dig a hole two to three times the diameter of the root ball, ensuring the depth is exactly the same or slightly shallower. This wider hole allows the roots to spread easily into the surrounding native soil, while the correct depth ensures the root collar remains exposed above the final soil grade. Before placing the tree, examine the sapling’s root ball and use a sharp tool to prune any roots that are circling the perimeter, encouraging them to grow outward.
Executing the Planting Process
Carefully remove the olive tree from its container, supporting the base of the root ball rather than pulling on the trunk. Position the tree in the center of the prepared hole, ensuring the root flare or collar sits slightly above the surrounding soil grade. Planting the tree too deeply is a common error that can lead to collar rot, which compromises the vascular system of the trunk.
As you settle the tree, orient it so the best-looking side faces the most visible direction. Begin backfilling the hole with the native soil you removed, gently breaking up any large clumps. Use the original soil exclusively, as adding amendments like compost or fertilizer at this stage can discourage the tree’s roots from extending into the surrounding earth.
Fill the hole about halfway and lightly tamp the soil to eliminate large air pockets, being careful not to compact it excessively. Continue filling the remainder of the hole until the backfill is level with the surrounding grade, leaving the root collar exposed. Once backfilled, use the excess soil to form a low, circular earthen berm or wall just outside the diameter of the root ball.
This temporary soil ring acts as a basin to retain water during the initial irrigation phase. The berm ensures water soaks slowly and deeply into the soil directly over the new root system. This focused watering is paramount for the first year, as the tree’s small root mass is highly susceptible to drying out.
Immediate Care for Establishment
The first watering after planting must be a thorough and deep soak to settle the soil particles around the newly placed roots. Fill the temporary water ring multiple times until the water no longer drains quickly, confirming the entire root zone is saturated. Consistent, deep watering is required during the first year, particularly in hot weather, as young olive trees are not yet drought-tolerant.
Next, apply a two to three-inch layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or pine straw, across the backfilled area. This layer will help conserve soil moisture, regulate root temperature, and suppress competitive weed growth. Maintain a mulch-free ring of several inches immediately adjacent to the trunk to prevent moisture buildup, which can lead to decay and disease at the root collar.
Staking is generally unnecessary for smaller trees, as a slight sway helps the trunk develop strength. However, if the tree is tall, top-heavy, or located in an area with constant high winds, temporary staking may be required for stability. If you must stake, use one or two sturdy stakes placed 12 to 18 inches away from the trunk and secure the tree loosely with flexible ties to allow for some natural movement.