How to Plant an English Garden

The English garden style offers a romantic vision of abundance, creating a sense of natural profusion that feels both relaxed and intentional. This design relies on a layered, informal approach, where plants intermingle to form deep, vibrant displays of color and texture. Achieving this look is fundamentally about balancing a strong underlying structure with the soft, overflowing nature of the planting. This gardening philosophy favors dense planting and a wide diversity of species to ensure continuous visual interest throughout the growing season.

Establishing the Design and Structure

The foundation of an English garden is the herbaceous border, a planting area designed to display continuous color and depth. These borders should be deep, ideally extending at least 6 to 8 feet from any boundary to allow for the proper layering of plants. The perceived informality of the garden is actually rooted in a strong structural framework, often referred to as the “bones” of the design. This structure is provided by hardscaping elements that define the space.

Hardscaping elements like stone or gravel pathways, rustic wooden arbors, and decorative gates help to contain the exuberant plantings. A pergola or arbor provides immediate verticality and a permanent focal point for climbing plants. These structural anchors create a sense of controlled wildness, preventing the dense plantings from appearing chaotic. Hedges, particularly those made of boxwood or yew, can also be used to create defined “garden rooms” and provide a constant, dark green backdrop that highlights the bright floral displays.

Layering creates visual depth and height variation within the deep borders. Taller plants, such as spires or shrubs, are positioned at the back, providing a vertical screen or backdrop. Medium-height perennials form the middle ground, creating a mass of color and texture. Low-growing plants, ground covers, and edging varieties are placed at the front, often allowed to spill slightly over the path to soften the hard edges of the border.

Curating the Classic English Plant Palette

The classic English garden palette is defined by a dense mix of flowering shrubs, perennials, biennials, and self-seeding annuals. Roses are the backbone of this aesthetic, with both climbing roses trained on structures and large, fragrant shrub roses forming focal points within the borders. Traditional varieties like those from David Austin are valued for their repeat-blooming nature and strong, old-fashioned scents.

Traditional herbaceous perennials create the signature spire and mound shapes that give the borders their characteristic texture. Delphiniums and hollyhocks, which can reach heights of six feet or more, are placed toward the back to provide striking vertical accents. Other classic choices include the bell-shaped foxglove, the rounded, fragrant peonies, and the long-blooming hardy geraniums. These perennials often spill over the edges of the planting beds, adding to the informal look.

Self-seeding annuals are introduced to intermingle with the perennials, achieving abundance and filling in any gaps. Plants like cosmos, California poppies, and love-in-a-mist (Nigella damascena) drop their seeds, allowing them to appear in unexpected places year after year. Color schemes typically favor soft pastels, such as blush pinks, sky blues, and lavender, punctuated with bursts of vibrant colors like deep crimson or brilliant gold. Foundational greenery, such as evergreen boxwood, provides year-round structure and a dark contrast that makes the floral colors pop.

Site Preparation and Layered Planting

Successful establishment of a dense English garden begins with careful site selection and thorough soil preparation. Most classic flowering plants, including roses and sun-loving perennials, require a location that receives a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight daily. An initial soil test is recommended to determine the existing pH and nutrient levels, allowing for targeted amendments.

English garden plants thrive in rich, deep, well-draining soil, so heavy amending with organic matter is necessary. Forking in a generous layer of compost or well-rotted farmyard manure, ideally 4 to 6 inches deep, helps to break up compacted soil and improves both drainage and moisture retention. For heavy clay soils, adding grit or sand in conjunction with organic matter will further enhance permeability and prevent root rot.

When planting, the goal is to position plants in irregular groupings, or “drifts,” rather than in straight, formal rows. The layered design is implemented by planting the tallest species first at the back, followed by the mid-sized plants, and finally the low-growers and edgers at the front. Plants should be placed closer together than in a traditional arrangement to achieve the desired full, overflowing appearance.

Seasonal Maintenance for Continuous Charm

Maintaining the dense, overflowing appearance of an English garden requires regular, targeted seasonal interventions. Deadheading, the removal of spent flower heads, is performed throughout the season to redirect the plant’s energy from seed production back into creating new flowers. This action encourages a continuous cycle of rebloom for many perennials and roses.

Taller, spire-like plants such as delphiniums and lupines require staking to prevent their heavy flower heads from flopping over in wind or rain. Placing natural supports, like brushwood or peony cages, early in the season allows the plants to grow up and conceal the structure. Roses have specific pruning requirements, often needing a heavy winter or early spring prune to shape the plant and a lighter mid-season snip to encourage further flowering.

Due to the high planting density, the garden requires a consistent schedule of watering and feeding to sustain its profusion. Deep, infrequent watering is preferable to shallow, daily sprinkles, encouraging the development of robust root systems. Applying a balanced, slow-release granular fertilizer in early spring, and potentially a liquid feed mid-season, replenishes the nutrients consumed by the closely-packed plants. Managing the self-seeding annuals requires the gardener to selectively thin or transplant seedlings to maintain balance.