Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) is a popular bulb often forced into bloom indoors, especially during winter. These striking plants are appreciated for their large, trumpet-shaped flowers atop tall, leafless stalks. Planting an Amaryllis is a straightforward project that rewards careful preparation with a spectacular display of color.
Pre-Planting Essentials
Successful planting begins with selecting a healthy bulb. It should be firm, dry, and free from mold, decay, or soft spots. The size of the bulb correlates directly with the number of flower stalks and blooms it will produce; larger bulbs (e.g., 32 to 36 centimeters in circumference) generally yield the most impressive display. Before planting, soak the bulb’s roots in lukewarm water for a few hours to rehydrate them.
The container must have drainage holes and be sturdy enough to support the mature, top-heavy plant. Amaryllis bulbs perform best when slightly root-bound, so the pot should only be one to two inches wider than the bulb’s diameter. Use a well-draining potting mix to prevent waterlogged conditions and bulb rot. A standard mix amended with perlite or a mix formulated for succulents provides necessary aeration and drainage.
Step-by-Step Planting Guide
Begin by filling the pot about halfway with the growing medium. Place the bulb in the center with the pointed end, or “neck,” facing upward. Spread the bulb’s roots out to rest on the soil surface.
Add more potting mix around the sides of the bulb, gently firming the soil to secure its position. Leave a significant portion of the bulb exposed above the soil line, keeping the top one-third to one-half visible. This planting depth prevents the neck from rotting.
The final soil level should be slightly below the rim of the pot to allow space for watering. After securing the bulb, water the medium thoroughly once, allowing excess water to drain completely from the bottom holes. Do not let the pot sit in a saucer of standing water.
Immediate Post-Planting Care
Following planting, place the bulb in an environment that encourages root development before stem growth begins. Move the pot to a warm location, ideally maintaining 68 to 75°F. Warmth is the primary signal for the bulb to begin activity, though bright, indirect light is acceptable during this initial phase.
Water sparingly until the first signs of growth, such as a green tip emerging from the neck, become visible. Overwatering at this stage commonly leads to bulb decay. Once the flower stalk or leaves are a few inches tall, increase watering to keep the soil consistently moist but not saturated. If the flower stalk grows rapidly and becomes top-heavy, insert a support stake to prevent bending.
Encouraging Re-blooming
To ensure the Amaryllis re-blooms, the bulb must rebuild the energy reserves spent on the initial flowering. Once blooms fade, cut the spent flower stalks back to about an inch above the bulb, leaving the foliage intact. The long, strap-like leaves are necessary for photosynthesis, which creates the energy stored for the following year’s flowers.
Treat the plant like a standard houseplant throughout spring and summer. Place it in a bright, sunny window and water regularly. Fertilize monthly with a balanced houseplant fertilizer to support energy production. After the danger of frost has passed, the plant can be moved outdoors to a partially shaded spot to further strengthen the bulb.
In late summer or early fall, initiate dormancy by withholding water and fertilizer. Move the potted bulb to a cool, dark, and dry location (45 to 55°F). This resting period should last eight to twelve weeks. After this rest, bring the bulb back into a warm, bright area and restart the watering cycle; new blooms should appear in six to ten weeks.