The Skip Laurel (Prunus laurocerasus ‘Schipkaensis’) is a popular choice for creating dense, year-round evergreen hedges and privacy screens. This durable shrub features glossy, dark green foliage that holds its color even through winter. Its relatively fast growth rate and ability to thrive in various conditions make it highly valued in residential landscapes. Successfully establishing a Skip Laurel requires attention to environmental needs and a precise planting method.
Site Selection and Timing
The health of a Skip Laurel hedge begins with selecting the appropriate planting location, focusing on sun exposure and soil structure. Skip Laurels are highly adaptable, performing well in locations ranging from full sun (at least six hours of direct sunlight daily) to partial shade. In regions with extremely hot summer temperatures, providing afternoon shade can minimize stress and prevent leaf scorch.
This shrub is tolerant of a wide range of soil types, including clay and sandy loam, but the soil must have excellent drainage. Planting in poorly draining soil is the primary cause of root rot, which can quickly destroy the plant, so water must not accumulate around the root ball. The best time to plant a Skip Laurel is during the milder temperatures of early spring or early fall. Planting during these periods allows the root system to establish without the intense heat of summer or the freezing stress of winter.
The Physical Planting Process
Preparing the planting hole correctly is important to prevent future growth issues and ensure the plant’s long-term stability. For each shrub, dig a hole two to three times wider than the root ball, but the depth must be exactly the same as its height. Digging too deep and then backfilling underneath can cause the shrub to settle over time, leading to improper planting depth.
Once the hole is prepared, the root ball needs attention before placement. If the Skip Laurel is container-grown, gently loosen or score the outer layer of roots to encourage them to spread into the surrounding soil. If the shrub is balled-and-burlapped, remove any wire cage completely after placing the root ball in the hole. Cut away all twine or rope tied around the trunk and pull the burlap back from the top third of the root ball, removing it entirely if possible.
Position the shrub so that the root flare (the point where the trunk begins to widen at the base) is level with or slightly above the surrounding grade. This elevated planting is helpful in heavy clay soils to promote drainage and prevent the crown from sitting in water. Use the native soil removed from the hole to backfill around the root ball, tamping it gently to eliminate large air pockets. Avoid compacting the soil too heavily, as this can restrict oxygen and water flow to the new roots.
Essential Care for Establishment
Immediate and consistent watering is necessary to help the newly planted Skip Laurel transition to the landscape environment. After the shrub is in the ground, water the entire area deeply until the root ball and the surrounding backfill soil are saturated. This initial saturation helps the new soil settle and removes any remaining air pockets around the roots.
For the first year, keep the root zone consistently moist but never waterlogged. Check the soil moisture by inserting your finger two inches deep near the root ball; if the soil is dry at that depth, water thoroughly again. Depending on weather and soil type, this may mean watering daily for the first week, then tapering back to a deep watering once or twice weekly as the plant establishes.
Applying an organic mulch layer is an effective way to regulate soil temperature and conserve moisture during the establishment phase. Spread a two- to three-inch layer of wood chips or shredded bark over the planting area, extending out to the drip line. Ensure the mulch does not directly touch the trunk, as this can trap moisture against the bark, leading to fungal issues and crown rot. Consistent moisture management is the best defense against transplant shock, which appears as wilting or leaf browning.