Persimmon trees are striking deciduous fruit trees, valued for their vibrant fall foliage and unique, sweet fruit. Belonging to the genus Diospyros, they offer a harvest that often extends into late autumn. Successfully establishing a persimmon begins with careful planning, from choosing the right variety to preparing the planting location.
Selecting the Right Variety and Site
The first step is deciding between the two main types, which differ in hardiness and fruit characteristics. The American persimmon (Diospyros virginiana) is native to North America and is the most cold-hardy, thriving in USDA zones as low as 5. Its fruit is exclusively astringent, meaning it must be completely soft and jelly-like to be edible.
The Asian or Japanese persimmon (Diospyros kaki) prefers warmer climates, generally suited for USDA zones 7–10. This type is divided into astringent varieties, such as ‘Hachiya,’ and non-astringent varieties like ‘Fuyu,’ which can be eaten while still firm. Most Asian persimmons are self-fruitful and can produce seedless fruit without a pollinator. Many American cultivars require a separate male tree nearby for pollination.
Selecting the correct location is important for the tree’s long-term health. Persimmon trees require a minimum of six to eight hours of direct sunlight each day for optimal growth and fruit production. Adequate spacing must be considered, as American varieties can grow up to 50 feet tall, while Asian varieties typically reach 15 to 25 feet. A site protected from strong winds is beneficial for young trees.
Preparing the Planting Location
Preparing the site begins by determining the optimal planting time, which is during the tree’s dormant season to minimize transplant shock. This period typically falls in late autumn after the leaves have dropped or in early spring before new buds begin to swell. In regions with severe winters, planting in early spring is the safer choice, allowing the tree time to establish roots before summer.
Persimmons tolerate various soil types but prefer a slightly acidic to neutral pH, ideally ranging between 6.0 and 7.0. The primary soil requirement is excellent drainage, as persimmon roots are susceptible to rot in soggy conditions. A simple drainage test involves digging a 12-inch deep hole, filling it with water, and observing the drainage rate.
If the soil drains poorly, improve the area by creating a raised bed or planting the tree on a slight mound to elevate the root crown. While persimmons tolerate heavy clay, incorporating organic compost into the native soil can enhance porosity and water retention. Amendments should be mixed thoroughly with the native soil to help the tree adapt to its permanent environment.
Step-by-Step Planting Procedure
Dig a planting hole that is two to four times wider than the tree’s root ball. The depth should be no deeper than the root system itself. Keeping the dug soil nearby will make backfilling easier and prevent soil compaction in the surrounding area.
If planting a bare-root tree, soak the roots in water for at least 12 hours prior to planting. For all trees, inspect the root system and prune away any damaged, broken, or circling roots. Containerized trees may need the outer roots lightly scored or loosened to encourage outward growth into the native soil.
Position the tree in the center of the hole, locating the root flare where the trunk widens at the base. This flare must sit at or slightly above the final soil grade to account for settling. Backfill the hole with the original native soil, gently tamping to eliminate air pockets around the roots. Avoid adding fertilizer directly into the planting hole, as the high salt content can damage sensitive roots.
Immediate Post-Planting Care
The first step after planting is a deep, thorough watering to settle the soil around the roots and ensure good soil-to-root contact. This initial watering should saturate the entire planting zone, helping to remove air pockets that could dry out the roots. A shallow basin can be formed at the edge of the planting hole to direct water into the root zone.
Next, apply a two to three-inch layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or shredded bark, across the planting area. Mulch helps retain soil moisture, regulate soil temperature, and suppress weeds. Pull the mulch a few inches away from the tree’s trunk, forming a donut shape, to prevent moisture accumulation against the bark, which can lead to rot.
Staking is generally unnecessary unless the tree is tall, planted in a windy location, or has a small root system relative to its canopy. If staking is required, use two flexible ties attached to sturdy stakes, allowing the trunk slight movement to encourage a strong root system. Throughout the first growing season, newly planted persimmons require consistent watering, typically once or twice a week. The goal is deep, infrequent saturation, allowing the soil to dry slightly between sessions.