How to Plant a Monkey Grass Border

Monkey grass is a common name for low-growing, grass-like plants, most often referring to species from the genus Liriope or Ophiopogon (mondo grass). These plants are prized for their dense, evergreen foliage and ability to thrive in a wide range of conditions. Creating a border with monkey grass offers a neat, tailored appearance for edging walkways, flower beds, or foundations. The resilience of these perennials ensures a long-lasting, defined line in the landscape with minimal effort once established.

Preparing the Border Location

Defining the precise path of the border is the first step, which can be achieved by laying out a garden hose, a string line, or landscape spray paint. Once the line is established, the area must be thoroughly cleared of all existing weeds, grass, and debris to prevent competition. It is important to remove the roots of perennial weeds, as they can quickly re-establish themselves and invade the border.

Preparing the soil ensures the plants have the best environment for root establishment. Loosen the soil along the entire marked border to a depth of six to eight inches, which promotes better aeration and drainage. Incorporating organic matter like compost into the loosened soil can improve structure and provide necessary nutrients.

Determining the correct spacing is essential for achieving a dense, seamless border. The required distance depends on the specific variety chosen, as Liriope muscari varieties are clumping, while Liriope spicata is a faster-spreading type. For clumping varieties, space the plants approximately 12 inches apart to allow them to grow together and form a solid line. If a quicker, denser border is desired, the spacing can be reduced to six to eight inches, especially for smaller varieties like mondo grass (Ophiopogon japonicus).

Step-by-Step Planting Method

Planting the border can be accomplished by digging individual holes or, for a longer border, excavating a continuous trench matching the depth of the plant’s root mass. Before placing the plants, gently tease apart any tightly bound roots on container-grown specimens to encourage them to spread into the new soil. If planting divisions from a mature clump, ensure each section has a healthy cluster of roots and at least two or three shoots.

Place each plant into the prepared hole or trench so that the crown sits exactly level with the surrounding soil surface. The crown is the point where the leaves meet the roots. Planting too deep can lead to crown rot, while planting too shallow can cause the roots to dry out quickly.

After placing the plants, backfill the trench or hole with the prepared soil mixture, gently firming it down around the root mass to eliminate air pockets. Air pockets prevent proper soil-to-root contact, hindering water and nutrient absorption. Once the soil is settled, the entire newly planted area should be deeply saturated with water to further settle the soil and fully hydrate the roots.

Essential Post-Planting Care

The immediate deep watering following planting ensures the entire root zone is moist and helps the soil settle firmly around the plant crowns. Following this initial soaking, a consistent watering routine is necessary for the first six to eight weeks of establishment. Keep the soil consistently moist but never waterlogged, as excessive moisture can lead to root rot.

Applying a two-to-three-inch layer of organic mulch, such as shredded bark or pine straw, immediately after planting provides significant benefits. Mulch helps regulate soil temperature and drastically reduces water evaporation from the soil surface. Ensure the mulch layer is kept a few inches away from the plant crowns to prevent moisture accumulation, which can encourage fungal issues.

Heavy fertilization should be avoided while the plants focus on developing new roots. The organic matter added during soil preparation provides sufficient nutrients for the initial establishment phase. Once new, healthy growth is visible, a light application of a balanced, slow-release fertilizer can be used in the early spring of the following year to promote vigor.