The term “Money Plant” refers to several houseplants, most notably the Pachira aquatica (Money Tree) and the Pilea peperomioides (Chinese Money Plant). Both are popular for their unique foliage and are frequently associated with bringing prosperity. Successfully planting these species in soil requires specific preparation and attention to their differing needs, ensuring a strong foundation for growth.
Preparing the Planting Environment
Choosing the correct container is the first step in establishing a healthy plant, and it must include adequate drainage holes. Excess water trapped around the roots is a common cause of plant failure, leading to root rot. The pot size should be proportional to the plant’s current root ball, typically only one to two inches larger in diameter.
The specific soil mixture should be well-draining. For the tropical Pachira aquatica, a general houseplant potting mix amended with materials like perlite or pumice to increase drainage is suitable. The Pilea peperomioides often thrives in a mix closer to a succulent or cactus blend, which ensures it dries out more quickly between waterings.
Once the container and soil are prepared, the plant’s placement must be determined based on its light requirements. Both species prefer bright, indirect light, mimicking the dappled light they would receive in their native habitats. Direct, intense sunlight can cause the leaves to scorch, while insufficient light will lead to sparse, elongated growth.
Starting a New Money Plant
Obtaining a new plant often involves propagation from an existing, healthy specimen. The Pilea peperomioides naturally produces small offsets or “pups” that emerge from the soil around the mother plant. These rooted plantlets can be gently severed from the parent using a clean, sharp knife and immediately potted into their own small containers.
The Pachira aquatica is most often propagated using stem cuttings. A cutting about six inches long should be taken just below a node, which is the point where a leaf connects to the stem. The cutting can then be placed in water to encourage root development or directly inserted into a prepared, moistened potting mix.
If rooting in water, the cutting should be transferred to soil once the new roots are approximately one to two inches long. For direct soil planting, applying a rooting hormone to the cut end can encourage faster and more robust root initiation before insertion. Propagating during the active growing season, generally spring or summer, increases the likelihood of success.
Establishing the Plant in Soil
Begin by adding a layer of the prepared, well-draining soil mix to the base of the pot. This layer raises the plant’s root ball so the top of the root system will sit about an inch below the container’s rim, allowing space for watering. Before placing the plant, gently loosen any tightly bound roots.
Position the plant centrally in the container and begin to backfill the surrounding space with the remaining potting mix. Use your fingers or a small tool to lightly tamp the soil around the base of the stem, securing the plant upright in its new container.
It is important to avoid burying the stem deeper than it was in its previous environment. The goal is to anchor the plant firmly enough to prevent it from shifting. Once planted, the surface of the soil should be level and ready for the initial watering.
Essential Post-Planting Care
The first watering should be thorough, saturating the soil until water runs freely out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. This initial flush helps settle the soil around the roots and eliminates any remaining small air pockets, which is crucial for root establishment.
For a newly potted cutting, maintaining a slightly higher level of ambient humidity can help reduce water loss through the leaves while the roots establish themselves. This can be achieved by placing the potted plant near a humidifier or on a pebble tray filled with water. Placing the plant in a warm area, ideally between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, also promotes faster root development.
The newly planted specimen should be kept out of direct, harsh sun for the first few weeks to prevent transplant shock. Monitoring the soil moisture is crucial during this phase, ensuring it remains lightly moist but never waterlogged. After the initial settling period, the plant can be gradually moved to its permanent location with bright, indirect light.