The Meyer lemon (Citrus × meyeri) is a fruit tree valued for its compact size and prolific production. This plant is a hybrid that produces fruit sweeter and less acidic than common lemons. The fruit features a thin, fragrant rind that turns yellow-orange when ripe. Successfully establishing this tree requires careful attention to the initial planting process to ensure its long-term health.
Pre-Planting Preparation
The optimal time to plant a Meyer lemon tree is during the mild temperatures of early spring or fall. This timing allows the root system to establish without the stress of extreme heat or cold. Planting during this period avoids the high evaporative demands of summer and potential root damage from winter frost.
Meyer lemons require a location that receives full sun, meaning a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight daily for robust fruiting. Proper drainage is fundamental for all citrus, as the roots are susceptible to rot in saturated conditions. A sandy or loamy soil texture is ideal, and sites with heavy clay or standing water should be avoided.
When selecting stock from the nursery, choose a tree with bright, glossy green leaves and no signs of pests or disease. Inspect the roots by gently sliding the tree out of its container if possible. Avoid trees with excessively thick, circling roots, as this indicates the tree is root-bound and may struggle to establish. Choosing an “Improved Meyer Lemon” variety ensures the tree is virus-free.
Step-by-Step Installation
Digging the planting hole must prioritize width over depth to allow for lateral root growth. The hole should be two to three times wider than the root ball, but only as deep as the root ball itself. This ensures the tree is not planted too low, which is a common cause of failure in citrus.
Before placing the tree, gently loosen or “score” the outer edges of the root ball with a hand trowel or knife, especially if the roots are tightly packed. This encourages the roots to grow outward into the native soil. Place the tree in the center of the hole, ensuring the root flare—where the trunk widens at the base—is visible and sits slightly above the surrounding soil line.
Planting the tree so the crown sits one to two inches above the finished grade prevents collar rot, a fungal disease that attacks the trunk near the soil. Backfill the hole using the native soil, gently tamping it down to remove large air pockets. Avoid amending the backfill soil with excessive compost or potting mix, as this discourages roots from growing into the surrounding landscape.
Establishing the Tree
After the tree is placed and the backfill is settled, provide a deep, thorough watering. This initial soaking provides moisture and helps the soil settle naturally around the root ball, eliminating air pockets. Apply the water slowly until the entire root zone is saturated.
Once the water has drained, apply a two to four-inch layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or shredded bark. Mulch helps conserve soil moisture, regulate soil temperature, and suppress weeds. Keep the mulch several inches away from the trunk itself, forming a “mulch donut.” Placing mulch directly against the trunk can trap moisture and invite fungal pathogens that lead to collar rot.
Meyer lemon trees are heavy feeders, but a newly planted tree should not be fertilized immediately, as this can burn the establishing roots. Wait until the tree shows signs of new growth, such as the emergence of fresh leaves, typically several weeks after planting. For the first feeding, use a slow-release, high-nitrogen fertilizer formulated for citrus.