A live Christmas tree, often purchased with its roots contained in a burlap-wrapped ball, offers a sustainable way to celebrate the holidays, transforming a temporary decoration into a permanent landscape addition. Successful transplantation requires careful planning and execution to minimize shock to the evergreen species, which is naturally dormant during the winter season. The process focuses on preserving the tree’s health during its brief indoor stay and ensuring proper installation into the native soil after the festivities. This guide provides the practical steps necessary for a smooth transition from your living room to your yard, giving your tree the best chance for long-term survival and growth.
Preparing the Tree and Planting Site
Preparation for planting must begin well before the tree is brought inside for display. Selecting a species suited to your local climate and hardiness zone, such as a cold-hardy fir or spruce, is the first step toward long-term success. The chosen permanent location should accommodate the tree’s mature size, allowing for adequate sunlight, proper drainage, and sufficient space away from structures or utility lines.
A critical step is digging the planting hole before the ground freezes solid, which typically happens well before the holiday season. The hole should be wide—at least two to three times the diameter of the root ball—but only as deep as the root ball’s height, ensuring the tree will not settle too deeply. The excavated soil should be stored in a frost-free area, like a garage, and the empty hole should be insulated with straw or leaves to prevent it from freezing and to maintain its accessibility for planting immediately after the holiday.
Temporary Indoor Care and Transition
The tree’s survival depends on minimizing its exposure to warm, dry indoor air, which can prematurely break its natural dormancy. The tree should be kept inside for an absolute maximum of 7 to 10 days; a shorter period is always preferable. Place the tree in the coolest possible room, ideally away from all heat sources like fireplaces, radiators, or heat vents, to reduce moisture loss from the needles. The root ball must be kept consistently moist but never waterlogged; check the soil daily and water thoroughly when the top inch feels dry.
After the indoor display, the tree needs a gradual reintroduction to the cold, a process known as “hardening off”. Move the tree to a sheltered, unheated space, such as a garage, shed, or porch, for one to two weeks, where temperatures remain just above freezing. This acclimatization period helps prevent sudden shock when the tree is finally planted outdoors.
The Step-by-Step Planting Process
Once the tree is acclimated and the prepared hole is ready, gently position the balled-and-burlapped root ball into the center of the hole. The top of the root ball, where the trunk begins to flare out (the root flare), should sit at or slightly above the surrounding grade level to prevent the tree from being planted too deep. This higher placement is especially important in heavy clay soils, which can suffocate roots.
After the tree is straight and properly positioned, remove all non-biodegradable and restricting materials surrounding the root ball. Use a knife or snips to cut and remove all twine, wire, and any synthetic burlap, which does not decompose. For wire baskets and natural burlap, remove at least the top one-third to one-half of the material, which is where the tree’s critical feeder roots will begin to grow into the native soil.
Begin backfilling the hole with the native soil that was set aside, ensuring you do not use soil amendments, which can discourage roots from growing beyond the planting hole. Tamp the soil lightly with water rather than your feet to eliminate air pockets without overly compacting the soil. Create a small, circular berm of soil just outside the planting hole to act as a watering basin, helping to direct water toward the root zone.
Post-Planting Care
The initial care after planting is focused on providing the newly transplanted tree with adequate moisture for root establishment. Immediately after backfilling, give the tree a deep, thorough watering to settle the soil and fully hydrate the root ball. The amount of water needed can be substantial, often requiring slow application to ensure the water soaks into the root ball and the surrounding soil.
Apply a layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or shredded bark, two to four inches deep, extending over the entire backfilled area. Do not pile the mulch against the trunk, as this can trap moisture and lead to rot; instead, keep a small, clear ring around the base, forming a donut shape. Maintain a consistent watering schedule throughout the first year, especially during dry periods, as the tree’s reduced root system struggles to take up water until it is fully established.