The Leyland Cypress (Cupressocyparis leylandii) is a fast-growing evergreen hybrid used extensively in landscaping. This tree is a cross between the Monterey cypress and the Nootka cypress, prized for its dense, dark green foliage that remains year-round. Its vigorous growth rate, which can reach up to three feet in a single year once established, makes it a preferred choice for quickly creating tall privacy screens and dense hedges. Planting the Leyland Cypress correctly is essential for achieving the desired, uniform growth habit.
Preparing the Site and Tree
Planting should ideally occur during the dormant season, which is typically in the mid-fall, about six weeks before the first hard frost, or in early spring. This timing allows the root system to begin developing in cool soil before the stresses of summer heat or active spring growth begin.
Leyland Cypress thrives best in a location that receives full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight daily, though it can tolerate partial shade. The soil must be consistently well-draining to prevent waterlogging, which can lead to root rot. The preferred soil pH range is slightly acidic to neutral, falling between 5.0 and 8.0.
When planning a privacy screen or hedge, proper spacing is a preventative measure against future disease and overcrowding. For a dense screen, trees are often planted between eight to fifteen feet apart, measured from the center of the trunk. Closer spacing, such as four to six feet, will create a faster, denser hedge but increases the risk of disease by reducing airflow and root competition as the trees mature. The root ball of the tree should be soaked briefly in water to ensure it is adequately hydrated.
Step-by-Step Planting Instructions
Dig a hole that is two to three times wider than the root ball but no deeper than the root ball itself. Keeping the hole shallow is necessary because Leyland Cypress roots need to grow outward into the surrounding, less compacted soil, rather than simply downward. After digging, the sides of the hole should be loosened with a shovel or fork to further encourage lateral root growth.
Carefully remove the tree from its container and inspect the root ball, which often shows roots circling the outside. Circling roots must be gently loosened or scored vertically to encourage them to grow out into the new soil. Place the tree in the center of the hole, ensuring the root flare—the point where the trunk widens at the base—is slightly above or level with the surrounding soil line. Planting the tree too deeply can lead to trunk decay.
The hole is then backfilled using the original soil that was removed, which is generally better than amending the entire hole with potting soil. Backfill the soil in layers, tamping it down gently with your hands or feet to eliminate large air pockets that can dry out the roots. Apply a deep, thorough watering to settle the soil around the newly placed roots. This initial soaking is important for establishing soil-to-root contact, which is necessary for water absorption.
Ensuring Initial Establishment
Apply a two- to three-inch layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or shredded bark, in a wide ring around the tree. The mulch helps conserve soil moisture, regulates soil temperature, and suppresses competing weeds.
Keep the mulch several inches away from the trunk itself to prevent moisture buildup against the bark, which can promote disease. The watering schedule is particularly important during the first growing season. Newly planted trees require frequent, deep watering to keep the soil consistently moist but not saturated.
Water deeply two to three times per week, especially during dry periods, and then gradually reduce the frequency as the tree becomes established. Soil moisture should be monitored by hand; if the soil feels dry a couple of inches down, it is time to water again. Staking is usually unnecessary, but if required, the supports should be removed after the first year to allow the trunk to develop strength naturally.