The Ginkgo tree (Ginkgo biloba), also called the Maidenhair tree, is a unique and highly resilient species. Often referred to as a “living fossil,” its lineage dates back over 270 million years, making it one of the oldest surviving tree species. It is easily recognized by its distinctive, fan-shaped leaves, which turn a striking golden yellow in autumn before dropping almost simultaneously. The Ginkgo’s ability to withstand urban pollution ensures its continued cultivation.
Selecting the Site and Specimen
Choosing the right location is the first step toward successful establishment. Planting is best done during the dormant season, either in early spring or in the fall after the leaves have dropped, to minimize transplant shock. The tree performs best in full sun exposure, although it can tolerate some partial shade.
Ginkgo trees are adaptable but thrive most in well-drained, loamy or sandy soils. Avoid poor drainage, as overly saturated soil can lead to root rot in young trees.
A critical decision involves selecting a male or female specimen, as Ginkgo is a dioecious species. Female trees produce a fleshy seed that emits a strong, unpleasant odor when it drops and decays, often compared to rancid butter. To avoid this mess, nearly all nursery-sold landscape specimens are male cultivars, such as ‘Autumn Gold’ or ‘Princeton Sentry.’ These male trees are typically propagated by grafting to ensure the correct sex.
The Step-by-Step Planting Process
Once the ideal specimen and location have been determined, the planting process begins with preparing the hole. The planting hole should be dug two to three times the diameter of the root ball, but only as deep as the root ball itself. This width encourages the rapid outward growth of new feeder roots into the surrounding native soil, which is crucial for establishment.
The tree must not be planted too deep; the root flare—the slightly widened area where the trunk meets the roots—must be visible just above the surrounding soil line. Before placing the tree, gently remove it from its nursery container or unwrap the burlap and wire basket. Any roots that are tightly circling the root ball should be lightly scored or teased outward to prevent girdling later in the tree’s life.
Position the tree in the center of the hole, ensuring the root flare is at or slightly above ground level. Begin backfilling the hole with the native soil that was removed, tamping it down lightly to eliminate large air pockets. Avoid excessive soil amendments, as ginkgos adapt better when encouraged to grow roots into the native soil structure.
After filling the hole about halfway, water the soil deeply to help settle it around the roots and remove any remaining air pockets. Finish backfilling the rest of the hole, gently firming the soil, and ensure that the root flare remains completely exposed. The focus should be on creating a wide, shallow planting bed that allows for immediate root expansion.
Immediate Post-Planting Care
The first step after planting is a thorough, deep watering, which helps to hydrate the roots and settle the backfilled soil. This initial watering ensures good root-to-soil contact, which is necessary for the tree to begin absorbing nutrients and moisture. During the first growing season, a consistent watering schedule is necessary for the Ginkgo’s survival and establishment.
Deep, infrequent watering is preferable to shallow, frequent watering, as it encourages the roots to grow downward. A good rule of thumb is to water deeply once a week during periods without significant rainfall, allowing the soil to dry slightly between waterings. While mature Ginkgos are highly drought-tolerant, young trees require this consistent moisture to establish a strong root system.
Applying a two to four-inch layer of organic mulch around the newly planted tree is beneficial. The mulch helps to conserve soil moisture, regulate soil temperature, and reduce competition from weeds. It is important to keep the mulch a few inches away from the tree’s trunk, creating a “mulch donut” rather than a “mulch volcano,” which prevents moisture buildup and potential decay of the bark.
Staking is generally unnecessary unless the tree is planted in a very windy location. If staking is required, use flexible ties and remove the stakes after one year to allow the trunk to develop strength naturally. Initial pruning should be minimal, focusing only on removing any branches that were broken or damaged during the planting process.