How to Plant a Cutting and Grow a New Plant

Growing new plants from cuttings is a popular method of asexual reproduction. This process creates genetically identical copies, or clones, of a favored parent plant, ensuring the new specimen retains all desirable traits. Unlike growing from seed, propagation by cutting guarantees consistency in flower color, growth habit, and foliage. This technique offers an economical and faster way to multiply a plant collection without purchasing new individuals.

Preparation and Necessary Supplies

Successful propagation begins with selecting the right material and preparing the necessary tools. Always use a clean, sharp implement, such as a razor blade or bypass pruners, to make a precise cut that minimizes tissue damage. Sterilizing the blade with rubbing alcohol or a 10% bleach solution prevents the transfer of pathogens that can cause stem rot. The cutting should be taken from a healthy, non-flowering stem section, ideally making a 45-degree angle cut just below a node.

The node is a slightly swollen area on the stem where hormones are concentrated and where leaves or buds emerge. This growth point is where the new roots will form. After taking the cutting, carefully remove any leaves from the lower one-third of the stem, focusing on the nodes that will be submerged. Removing these leaves prevents decay in the planting medium, which could introduce fungal or bacterial issues that hinder root growth.

To enhance root development, the cut end is often treated with a rooting hormone product. These products contain synthetic auxins, such as Indole-3-butyric acid (IBA), which stimulate cell division and root formation at the wound site. Whether using a powder or a liquid preparation, the stem base should only be dipped lightly before planting to coat the wound. Applying too much hormone can inhibit growth or burn the tender stem tissue.

Planting Techniques and Medium Selection

The choice of planting medium significantly influences the success rate of a cutting. Standard garden soil or heavy potting mixes are unsuitable because they compact easily and restrict oxygen flow to the developing roots. A propagation medium needs to be sterile, well-aerated, and have excellent drainage properties to prevent the cutting from sitting in soggy conditions.

Highly recommended sterile options include mixes of perlite, vermiculite, coarse sand, or coconut coir, used alone or in combination. These materials provide structure to hold the cutting upright while allowing excess moisture to escape the rooting zone. Specialized seed-starting mixes are also used, offering a fine texture and low nutrient content.

Before inserting the cutting, use a pencil or small dowel to create a pilot hole in the moistened medium. This prevents the delicate stem and any applied rooting hormone from being scraped off. The cutting must be placed deep enough so that at least one node is completely buried beneath the medium surface to ensure contact with the substrate.

After insertion, gently firm the medium around the base of the stem to ensure good contact for water uptake. While some plants root readily in water, using a solid medium leads to stronger root systems that transition better to permanent soil. Cuttings rooted in water must be transplanted immediately upon root emergence, as water roots often struggle to adapt to the density and moisture retention of soil conditions.

Establishing Roots and Post-Planting Care

Once planted, the cutting must be placed in an environment that minimizes moisture loss through transpiration. Since the cutting lacks functional roots, high ambient humidity is necessary for survival during the rooting phase. Placing a clear plastic bag or a humidity dome over the pot traps moisture, maintaining a relative humidity level near 90-100% around the foliage.

Maintaining a consistently warm temperature, ideally between 65°F and 75°F (18°C and 24°C), encourages the metabolic activity required for root formation. Cuttings should receive bright, indirect light, such as near an east-facing window or beneath a fluorescent grow light. Direct sunlight must be avoided, as high light intensity combined with high humidity can quickly overheat and kill the cutting.

Root development typically takes several weeks to a few months, depending on the plant species and environmental stability. The first sign of successful rooting is often the appearance of new leaf growth at the tip or along the stem. A more reliable test is the “gentle tug test,” where resistance indicates that anchoring roots have formed in the medium.

Once a strong root mass has established, the new plant is ready for transplanting. This usually occurs when new growth is sustained and roots are visible through drainage holes. Carefully move the rooted cutting into a larger container filled with standard potting mix that offers good drainage and aeration. The transition should be gradual, slowly reducing the humidity over several days to acclimate the young plant before placing it in its final location.