Cherry trees offer beautiful spring blossoms and a harvest of fresh fruit, making them a rewarding addition to any garden. Successfully growing a cherry tree begins with proper planting, which ensures the young tree establishes a strong root system quickly. Taking the time to prepare the site and execute the planting correctly is the single most significant step toward long-term growth and fruit production.
Selecting the Right Location and Timing
Cherry trees require full sun exposure, needing a minimum of six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily to produce a good harvest and discourage disease. The soil must be deep and well-draining, as cherry trees are highly susceptible to root rot if their roots remain in standing water. A simple test is to dig a hole and ensure it drains completely within twelve hours.
The ideal soil composition is a fertile, loamy type with a slightly acidic to neutral pH, typically ranging between 6.0 and 7.0. Testing your soil before planting ensures the tree can absorb necessary nutrients efficiently. Consider the mature size of your chosen variety; standard sweet cherries may require up to 40 feet of space, while dwarf varieties need considerably less, often between 8 and 10 feet apart.
The most favorable time for planting is during the dormant season: late fall after leaf drop or early spring before bud break. Planting during these cooler periods minimizes transplant shock, allowing the tree to focus energy on root development before summer heat arrives. Fall planting allows root growth throughout the winter, while spring planting must occur after the ground has thawed and the threat of hard frost has passed.
The Step-by-Step Planting Process
Preparation begins with the planting hole, which should be two to three times the width of the root ball but not much deeper. This allows the roots to spread easily into the surrounding, loosened soil. For a container-grown tree, gently remove it and inspect the root ball, carefully loosening any circling roots that could eventually girdle the tree.
If planting a bare-root tree, soak the roots in water for a few hours before planting to ensure they are fully hydrated. Create a small cone of soil in the center of the planting hole, spreading the tree’s roots out and down over this mound. This encourages the roots to grow outward rather than circling.
Position the tree so that the root flare—the point where the roots begin to spread outward from the trunk—is level with or slightly above the surrounding soil surface. For a grafted tree, ensure the graft union (a visible bulge on the lower trunk) remains several inches above the soil line to prevent the scion from growing its own roots. Backfill the hole using only the native soil you removed, avoiding excessive amendments in the immediate planting area.
After filling the hole halfway, gently tamp the soil to remove large air pockets that can cause roots to dry out. Complete the backfilling, ensuring the tree remains straight, then lightly tamp the rest of the soil around the base. The finished soil should form a slight berm just outside the root zone to help retain water.
Immediate Establishment Care
The first step after planting is a deep, thorough watering to settle the soil and eliminate any remaining small air pockets around the roots. For the first year, consistent moisture is important for establishment, typically requiring about one inch of water per week in the absence of rain. Deep, infrequent watering is preferable to shallow watering, as it encourages the roots to grow deeper, creating a more resilient tree.
Applying a 2- to 4-inch layer of organic mulch (such as wood chips or shredded bark) helps retain soil moisture and stabilize soil temperature. Spread the mulch out to the drip line of the tree, but keep it several inches away from the trunk itself. Placing mulch directly against the trunk can trap moisture and encourage bark rot or create a favorable environment for pests.
Staking is generally only necessary if the tree is tall, top-heavy, or planted in a very windy location, as allowing the trunk to move slightly encourages strength development. If staking is required, use two low stakes positioned outside the root ball and attach the tree with a wide, flexible material in a figure-eight pattern. This material must be tied loosely enough to prevent girdling and removed within the first year once the tree can support itself.
Protecting the young tree’s smooth bark from hungry animals is a consideration, especially in winter. Using a commercial plastic spiral wrap or a cylinder of hardware cloth around the trunk prevents damage from mice, rabbits, and deer rubbing their antlers. Avoid fertilizing the tree immediately after planting, as this can burn new roots; wait until the following spring to apply a balanced fertilizer once the tree shows new growth.