Cherry trees are popular additions to home landscapes, providing beautiful spring blossoms and a harvest of fruit. They are generally divided into sweet cherries, typically eaten fresh, and sour or tart cherries, commonly used for baking and preserves. Successfully establishing a new cherry tree requires careful planning and a precise planting process to ensure the tree thrives in your environment.
Choosing the Right Variety and Location
Selecting the correct cherry variety is the first step toward a successful planting, as the choice depends on your region’s climate. Sweet cherry varieties, such as ‘Bing’ or ‘Rainier,’ generally require cross-pollination to produce fruit, though self-pollinating cultivars like ‘Stella’ or ‘Lapins’ exist. Sweet cherries also need a specific number of “chill hours,” often between 700 to 800 hours below 45°F, to break dormancy and set fruit, making them better suited for areas with distinct, cold winters.
Sour cherry varieties, like ‘Montmorency’ or ‘North Star,’ are typically self-pollinating and much hardier, tolerating colder climates. They require a lower or sometimes higher number of chill hours, with some needing over 1200 hours. Understanding the chilling requirement and pollination needs of a specific cultivar is important before purchasing. The optimal time for planting is during the tree’s dormant season, typically in late fall or early spring, which minimizes transplant shock and allows root establishment before summer heat.
The planting site must meet the tree’s fundamental needs for sunlight and drainage. Cherry trees require a location that receives a minimum of six to eight hours of direct sunlight each day for robust growth and fruit production. Well-drained soil is non-negotiable, as cherry trees are highly susceptible to root rot if their roots sit in standing water.
To check for drainage, dig a test hole and fill it with water; if the water takes longer than four hours to drain completely, the site is inadequate. A different location or planting on a raised mound should be considered. Spacing must also be planned based on the mature size of the chosen tree’s rootstock. Dwarf varieties may need only 8 to 10 feet of space, while standard trees can require 35 to 40 feet.
Step-by-Step Planting Guide
Planting begins with preparing the tree, especially if planting a bare-root specimen. Bare-root cherry trees should have their roots soaked in water for one to two hours before planting to rehydrate them, but they should not remain soaking for more than six hours. While soaking, inspect the root system and use clean shears to trim off any roots that are broken, damaged, or excessively long.
The planting hole should be dug two to three times wider than the spread of the root system, but only as deep as the root ball or the length of the longest roots. Digging the hole too deep can cause the tree to settle too low, leading to trunk and root problems. When planting, the goal is to position the tree so the trunk flare—the point where the trunk widens just above the roots—is level with or slightly above the surrounding soil grade.
The graft union, the noticeable bump where the cultivar was joined to the rootstock, must remain exposed above the soil line. For dwarf and semi-dwarf cherry trees, this union should sit two to three inches above the finished soil level to prevent the scion wood from developing its own roots, which would negate the dwarfing effect of the rootstock. Place the tree in the center of the hole, spreading the roots evenly, and then begin backfilling with the native soil, ensuring the most nutritious topsoil goes in first.
Gently firm the soil as you backfill to eliminate air pockets around the roots. Avoid using too many amendments in the backfill, as this can discourage the roots from growing out into the native soil. Once the hole is filled, create a small ring or berm of soil around the edge of the planting area to help retain water and direct it toward the root zone during the initial watering.
Essential Care for New Transplants
Immediately after planting, a heavy, thorough watering is necessary to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets. This first watering establishes good soil-to-root contact. Following this initial saturation, establishing a consistent watering routine is the most important care step during the first year.
The tree should be watered deeply and infrequently, typically once a week during the first growing season, especially in dry weather. This deep watering encourages the roots to grow downward, promoting a more stable and drought-tolerant tree over time. Always check the soil moisture several inches down before watering again to prevent overwatering, which can lead to root rot.
Applying a layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or composted bark, helps regulate soil temperature and conserve moisture. The mulch layer should be two to three inches deep and extend outward to the drip line of the tree to suppress weeds and slowly add organic matter to the soil. Keep the mulch pulled back several inches from the trunk of the tree to prevent moisture from accumulating against the bark, which can cause rot or attract pests.
Staking is necessary if the tree is tall, planted in a very windy location, or has a weak trunk. Staking must be done loosely to allow for natural movement, which strengthens the trunk. Minimal pruning is needed in the first year, focusing only on removing any broken or crossing branches to help the tree direct its energy into root establishment. Monitoring the new transplant for signs of stress allows for timely adjustments to watering or pest management during this foundational period.