Planting a cherry tree offers the reward of beautiful spring blossoms and summer fruit. Success depends on careful preparation and adherence to specific planting steps tailored to the tree’s needs. This guide provides a comprehensive approach to establishing a young cherry tree, ensuring it has the best foundation for a long and productive life.
Choosing the Right Location and Tree Variety
Selecting the proper site significantly impacts the tree’s long-term health and fruit production. Cherry trees require full sunlight, meaning a minimum of six to eight hours of direct sun exposure daily. This abundant light encourages fruiting and helps the foliage dry quickly, reducing the potential for fungal diseases. The ideal soil is well-draining, as cherry roots are susceptible to rot in waterlogged conditions. The soil pH should generally fall between 6.0 and 7.0 for optimal growth.
The choice between sweet cherries (Prunus avium) and sour cherries (Prunus cerasus) depends on personal taste, intended use, and local climate. Sour varieties, like Montmorency, are generally hardier and self-pollinating, meaning a single tree can produce fruit. Most sweet cherry varieties, such as Bing or Rainier, are self-unfruitful and require a different, compatible cultivar planted nearby for cross-pollination. Pollinator partners should be situated within about 100 feet of each other for effective pollen transfer.
Preparing the Planting Hole and Root System
Preparation begins with the planting hole, which should be two to three times wider than the tree’s root ball but no deeper. Digging a shallow, wide hole encourages the roots to grow outward into the surrounding native soil. This prevents the tree from settling too deeply, which can suffocate the root flare and promote disease. Keep the topsoil, which is richer in nutrients, separate from the subsoil.
Before placing the tree, the root system needs careful attention. Bare-root trees benefit from soaking their roots in water for one to two hours to rehydrate them before planting. For container-grown trees, gently loosen any roots that are tightly coiled or circling the perimeter of the pot. This prevents the tree from becoming root-bound and encourages the roots to spread into the surrounding soil. While some compost can be mixed into the backfill, avoid heavy soil amendments directly in the hole, as this can discourage roots from growing out into the native soil.
Step-by-Step Planting Guide
The planting process starts by creating a small cone of soil in the center of the hole if planting a bare-root tree. The roots should be spread evenly over this cone, ensuring they are not twisted or cramped. For all trees, the most important placement consideration is the graft union, the noticeable bump where the cultivar was joined to the rootstock.
The graft union must remain two to three inches above the finished soil line to ensure the rootstock controls the tree’s size and disease resistance. If the graft union is buried, the tree may develop its own roots, bypassing the rootstock’s qualities. Begin backfilling the hole with the reserved native topsoil, working the soil carefully around and beneath the roots.
When the hole is approximately half full, water the soil thoroughly to help settle the soil around the roots and eliminate air pockets. Finish filling the hole, lightly tamping the soil to maintain a stable, uniform structure. The top of the root ball or flare should be level with or slightly above the surrounding grade.
Essential Initial Care
Immediate aftercare centers on moisture management and protection to help the tree overcome transplant shock. A newly planted cherry tree requires a deep, thorough watering immediately after the soil is settled, often a volume of about five gallons. For the first few months, young trees are vulnerable to drought and heat stress while establishing new roots.
Apply a two to four-inch layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or shredded bark, in a wide circle around the base of the tree. This mulch layer conserves soil moisture, regulates temperature fluctuations, and suppresses weeds. Keep the mulch several inches away from the trunk itself to prevent moisture accumulation, which can lead to rot and create shelter for pests.
The watering schedule should focus on providing deep soakings two to three times per week for the first couple of months, adjusting for rainfall and soil type. The goal is to keep the root ball consistently moist; check the soil dryness two inches down before watering again. Staking is only recommended if the tree is in a windy location and the trunk cannot stand upright on its own. The ties must be loose to allow for slight movement that encourages trunk strength.