The cherry blossom tree, or sakura, transforms the landscape with clouds of white or pink blooms each spring. This seasonal display has made the ornamental flowering cherry a globally celebrated feature. Planting one successfully requires careful planning and execution to ensure the tree thrives. This guide offers practical advice for site preparation, planting technique, and initial care.
Selecting the Right Variety and Site
The journey to a successful cherry blossom tree begins with selecting a variety suited to your local climate, defined by USDA Hardiness Zones. Most common ornamental varieties, such as the Kwanzan or Yoshino, thrive best in zones 5 through 8. This range provides the necessary 500 to 1,000 chill hours (periods below 45°F) required for proper bud setting and blooming. Considering the tree’s mature size is also paramount, as varieties like the Weeping Cherry or the narrow, columnar ‘Amanogawa’ have very different space requirements.
Cherry blossom trees demand a location that receives a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight each day for optimal flower production. Full sun encourages dense flowering and reduces the risk of diseases that thrive in shaded, moist conditions. The soil must be well-drained, as these trees are highly susceptible to root rot in standing water. They prefer a moist, fertile loam with a slightly acidic to neutral pH, ideally between 6.0 and 7.5.
The optimal planting time depends on the form of the tree purchased. Bare-root trees, which are often younger, should be planted while dormant in late fall or early spring (typically November to March). Container-grown specimens offer more flexibility and can be planted in spring or fall. Avoiding the stress of mid-summer heat is always advisable for any new tree. Fall planting allows the root system to establish itself over the winter before spring growth begins.
Step-by-Step Guide to Planting
The planting hole should be prepared to encourage lateral root growth; it must be wide but not excessively deep. Dig the hole two to three times the width of the root ball. Ensure its depth is precisely equal to the distance from the bottom of the root ball to the root flare. The root flare is the point where the trunk widens before the roots branch out, and this area must not be buried. For container-grown trees, remove the tree from its pot and inspect the root ball for circling roots, which should be gently teased apart or sliced vertically with a clean blade.
Before placing the tree in the prepared hole, locate the root flare, which is often several inches below the soil surface in nursery stock. Gently remove any excess soil from the top of the root ball until the flare is exposed. When positioned, the root flare should sit at or slightly above the surrounding soil level (about one to two inches higher). This slight elevation accounts for future soil settling and prevents the trunk tissue from remaining continually moist, which can lead to rot and girdling roots.
Once the tree is positioned correctly, begin backfilling the hole with the native soil, avoiding excessive soil amendments. As you backfill, gently tamp the soil to remove large air pockets that can dry out the roots. Water the area thoroughly once the hole is filled to further settle the soil around the roots and eliminate any remaining voids. The planting process concludes with the root flare fully exposed and the soil lightly settled around the base.
Essential Care for Establishment
The first year is a phase of establishment, demanding consistent attention to moisture and protection to help the tree overcome transplant shock. Immediately after planting, provide a deep, thorough watering until the entire root zone is saturated. This initial saturation is crucial for firming the backfill soil and ensuring good contact between the roots and the surrounding earth.
A regular watering schedule must be maintained throughout the first growing season. This typically means one deep watering per week, increased to twice a week during periods of extreme heat or drought. Deep watering encourages the roots to grow downward, creating a more stable and drought-tolerant tree over time. The goal is to keep the soil consistently moist, but never waterlogged.
Applying a two to four-inch layer of organic mulch, such as bark chips or composted wood, is beneficial for moisture retention and temperature regulation. Spread the mulch out to the drip line of the tree, keeping it several inches away from the trunk itself. Mulch piled directly against the trunk creates a damp environment that invites pests and disease, known as a “mulch volcano.” Staking is only necessary if the tree is tall, bare-root, or planted in a location with strong, persistent winds. If staking is required, use flexible ties and remove the stakes after the first year to allow the trunk to develop strength naturally.