A bare root plant is a tree, shrub, or perennial sold while dormant, meaning it has no leaves and no soil surrounding its root system. These plants are harvested from the field in late fall or early winter after dropping their leaves and entering a resting state. This purchasing method is common due to cost-effectiveness and ease of shipping. Without the heavy bulk of soil and containers, bare root stock is lighter and simpler to transport, which allows growers to pass savings on to the home gardener.
Immediate Handling and Pre-Planting Preparation
The survival of a bare root plant hinges on preventing the roots from drying out between arrival and planting, as they are highly susceptible to desiccation. Upon receiving the plant, unpack it immediately to check the condition of the roots, which should feel firm and plump. If planting cannot happen within a day or two, store the plant in a cool, dark, non-freezing location, such as a garage or basement, ideally around 40 degrees Fahrenheit. The roots must be kept continually moist, perhaps by misting the packing material or wrapping them in damp sawdust or sphagnum moss.
For delays longer than a week, “heeling in” is necessary to protect the roots. This involves digging a shallow, angled trench in a protected, shaded spot and laying the plant down with its roots covered by loose, moist soil. Just before planting, the roots must be rehydrated through soaking. Place the entire root system in a bucket of room-temperature water for 30 minutes up to a maximum of 24 hours, depending on the plant’s size and dryness. Over-soaking for more than a day can drown the roots, reducing the plant’s ability to take up oxygen and establish itself.
Selecting the Location and Preparing the Hole
Bare root plants are best planted during their dormant season, generally spanning from late winter through early spring, before buds begin to swell. Planting while the ground is workable and before the plant breaks dormancy minimizes transplant shock. This allows the root system to begin establishing itself before the demands of leaf production start. Site selection requires matching the plant’s specific needs for sun exposure, soil type, and drainage to the chosen spot. Well-draining soil is a necessity, as waterlogged conditions can quickly lead to root rot.
The preparation of the planting hole provides the best start for root growth. The hole should be dug significantly wider than the spread of the bare root mass, typically two to three times the width. This broad hole ensures that the roots have soft, disturbed soil into which they can easily expand. However, the hole should only be dug as deep as the root mass itself, preventing the plant from settling too low in the ground.
Loosening the soil at the sides and bottom of the hole is important to break up any compacted layers or slick sides, especially in clay-heavy soils. Square-shaped holes are sometimes recommended over circular ones to encourage roots to grow outward rather than circling the planting boundary. While excessive fertilization at planting is discouraged, minor amendments like well-aged compost can be mixed with the native soil to improve structure and drainage.
Step-by-Step Planting Process
With the hole prepared and the roots hydrated, create a small, firm cone or mound of soil in the center of the planting hole. This cone acts as a pedestal, allowing the roots to be draped over it and spread outward and downward naturally, which is essential for proper establishment. Center the plant in the hole, adjusting the height to ensure the root collar, or root flare, sits slightly above the surrounding soil level. The root collar is the transition point where the roots meet the stem, often identifiable by a slight change in the bark’s color or texture.
Planting too deeply is a common cause of failure, as it can smother the root collar and lead to stem rot. Once the depth is correct and the roots are spread across the soil cone, begin backfilling the hole with the excavated soil. Add soil slowly, working it carefully around and between all the roots to eliminate air pockets. Gently tamping the soil with your hands, rather than stomping heavily, firms the backfill to ensure good contact between the soil and the roots.
After the hole is half-filled, a deep watering is beneficial to further settle the soil and collapse any remaining air gaps around the roots. Continue filling the hole until the backfill is level with the surrounding ground, then water deeply a second time. This initial saturation is crucial for establishing the moisture bond between the fine root hairs and the soil particles.
Essential Care for New Establishment
Consistent and appropriate watering is the most important factor for success during the first growing season. Newly planted bare root stock requires regular moisture to support the development of new root growth and the emergence of leaves. During the first few weeks, the soil should be checked daily and kept consistently moist, though never saturated, as this balance is necessary for root oxygen uptake.
A deep soaking once or twice a week is generally more effective than frequent light sprinkling, as deep watering encourages the roots to grow downward. The frequency depends on local climate and soil type, with sandy soils needing water more often than moisture-retentive clay soils. Apply a layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or shredded bark, around the planting area.
Mulch helps retain soil moisture, stabilizes soil temperature, and suppresses competing weeds. Apply the mulch layer two to four inches deep, keeping it several inches away from the stem or trunk. Piling mulch directly against the trunk creates a moisture trap that can invite pests and lead to bark rot, sometimes referred to as the “mulch volcano” problem. Certain bare root plants, such as fruit trees and roses, may benefit from a light initial pruning of the top growth to balance the canopy with the reduced root mass, focusing the plant’s energy on root establishment.