A bare root rose is a dormant plant dug from the field and shipped without soil around its roots. This method allows growers to offer a vast selection of varieties that are often more affordable than container-grown roses. Planting a bare root specimen in late winter or early spring, before it breaks dormancy, gives the plant a strong advantage. This timing allows the root system to establish itself before the demanding heat of the growing season begins, leading to robust growth and flowering.
Preparing the Rose and Planting Site
The planting site must receive at least six hours of direct sunlight daily to ensure the rose thrives and blooms prolifically. Good drainage is important, since roses dislike having “wet feet,” which can lead to root rot and fungal diseases. If your native soil is heavy clay, amend it with generous amounts of organic material, such as compost or well-rotted manure, to improve aeration and water percolation.
Before planting, rehydrate the dormant rose by soaking the roots in a bucket of water for a minimum of two hours, and up to 24 hours. Soaking reduces transplant shock and ensures the fine root hairs are plump with moisture. While the plant is soaking, inspect the root system and use clean shears to trim off any roots that are broken, damaged, or excessively long. Make clean cuts to encourage the formation of new, healthy feeder roots. Keep the roots moist right up until they are placed in the ground, as allowing them to dry out can cause significant stress.
Step-by-Step Installation
Dig a planting hole that is approximately 18 to 24 inches wide and deep enough to accommodate the full spread of the roots without bending them. The width loosens the surrounding soil, making it easier for the roots to expand outward into the garden bed. Place the soil removed from the hole aside for backfilling.
In the center of the prepared hole, create a firm, cone-shaped mound of soil mixed with your organic amendments. This mound serves as a base on which to rest the rose, allowing the roots to be draped naturally downward and outward over the cone. Setting the plant on this elevated base prevents the roots from bunching up, which would restrict their growth.
Position the rose on the mound to check the placement of the bud union, which is the swollen knot where the rose variety was grafted onto the rootstock. In cold climates, the bud union must be set two to three inches below the surrounding soil level for protection from winter cold. In warmer climates, the bud union is placed at or slightly above soil level to prevent the rootstock from developing its own canes.
Begin to backfill the hole using the amended soil, carefully working it around and beneath the spread roots to eliminate air pockets. As you fill, gently tamp the soil with your hands to ensure good contact between the roots and the soil particles. Once the hole is three-quarters full, apply a generous amount of water to further settle the soil and remove any remaining air pockets before finishing the backfill to the desired level.
Immediate Post-Planting Care
The newly planted bare root rose requires a thorough and deep initial watering immediately after the soil is settled. This heavy soak helps eliminate any lingering air pockets that could dry out the delicate root hairs and ensures the roots are fully hydrated. The soil should be saturated to the depth of the planting hole to begin the establishment process.
To protect the newly installed canes from drying out due to sun exposure and harsh winds, construct a temporary mound. Gently “hill” a pile of soil, compost, or mulch around the canes, completely covering them up to about two-thirds of their height. This protective layer acts as insulation, preventing desiccation of the dormant wood while the roots establish.
Once new buds begin to swell and show signs of growth, the temporary hilled material can be gradually removed to expose the canes. Use clean, sharp pruners to cut back the canes to a final height of about six to eight inches, making cuts just above a strong, outward-facing bud. Pruning encourages the plant to direct its energy into developing a robust root system.
For the first few weeks, monitor the soil moisture and water deeply every few days as needed, especially if there is no rain. The goal is to keep the soil consistently moist, but not waterlogged, to encourage the rapid development of new feeder roots. Consistent moisture during this initial establishment phase prevents the young plant from suffering stress.