How to Patch St. Augustine Grass for a Lush Lawn

St. Augustine grass is a warm-season turf prized for its dense, blue-green appearance and tolerance to shade and salt. This vigorous growth habit means that when damage occurs, a noticeable bare patch can quickly disrupt the uniform turf. Repairing these areas is necessary to prevent weeds from colonizing the exposed soil. Patching is a straightforward process that restores the lawn’s thick density by introducing new, healthy grass into the damaged space.

Assessing Damage and Preparing the Patch Area

Before beginning any repair, identify the root cause of the damage to prevent the new patch from failing. Bare areas often result from poor soil drainage, excessive foot traffic, or localized pest and disease activity. For instance, grass that pulls up easily may indicate root damage from white grubs or the fungal disease Take All Root Rot (TARR). Spots that look dry but do not respond to watering, especially in sunny areas, can point to chinch bug activity.

Once the underlying issue is addressed, use a rake or shovel to remove all dead grass, debris, and thatch from the affected area, exposing the bare soil beneath. Loosening the soil is important to encourage new root penetration. Lightly till or aerate the top 4 to 6 inches of the patch area to relieve compaction and ensure the new material has a hospitable bed to establish itself.

Selecting the Best Material for Repair

St. Augustine grass does not produce seed, meaning it must be propagated vegetatively using sod, plugs, or sprigs. Sod provides the quickest solution, as it is mature grass cut into squares or rolls. While it is the most expensive option, sod minimizes the opportunity for weeds to establish themselves in the bare soil.

Plugs are small, individual sections of grass, typically 2 to 4 inches in diameter, that are planted with space between them. This method is more cost-effective than sod but demands patience, as plugs can take several months to a full growing season to spread and fill the gaps. Sprigs, which are pieces of runners with nodes, are the most economical option but require the most labor and the longest time to establish a dense patch. The choice between materials is a trade-off between immediate aesthetics and budget.

Step-by-Step Installation Techniques

When using sod, measure the prepared area and cut the sod piece to fit precisely, using a sharp utility knife to match the edges of the existing turf. Lay the sod piece down, ensuring the soil side of the new sod is in complete contact with the prepared soil bed. Avoid overlapping the edges of the new patch with the healthy surrounding grass.

After placement, use a lawn roller to lightly tamp or press the sod down, which eliminates air pockets between the sod and the soil beneath. For plugs, plant them into the prepared patch area using a specialized plug tool or a small trowel. Space the plugs approximately 6 to 12 inches apart to allow the runners to spread and fill the intervening spaces.

The depth of the hole for a plug should be slightly shallower than the plug itself, allowing the top of the plug’s root ball to sit level with or slightly below the surrounding soil surface. Firm the soil around each plug by hand to ensure tight soil-to-root contact, which is necessary for water and nutrient absorption.

Crucial Care for Establishing New Growth

The new patch requires frequent, shallow watering to prevent the root zone from drying out. For the first 7 to 10 days, water the area two to three times daily to keep the top 3 to 4 inches of soil consistently moist. This frequent moisture encourages the new roots to grow out into the surrounding soil. After this initial period, gradually reduce the frequency of watering while increasing the duration, shifting to a deeper, less frequent schedule over the following weeks.

Wait to mow the new patch until the roots are securely anchored in the soil. Test this by gently trying to lift the material. Set the mower to the highest height setting and remove no more than one-third of the blade length. A light application of a starter fertilizer, which is higher in phosphorus, can be applied two to three weeks after installation to stimulate vigorous root growth and accelerate establishment.