A residential irrigation system is a network of pipes, valves, and sprinkler heads controlled by a central timer to deliver water to your landscape. Understanding how to operate and program this controller is important for maintaining a healthy lawn and conserving water. Operating the system efficiently ensures plants receive proper hydration while preventing runoff and evaporation. This guide provides an overview of the steps necessary for basic programming and seasonal maintenance.
Understanding the Controller and Basic Modes
The controller, often called a timer or clock, is the brain of your irrigation system, typically featuring a dial or buttons to cycle through various settings. Before programming, you must set the current time and date, usually by selecting a “Set Time” or “Clock” mode. This step ensures that all scheduled watering events occur precisely when intended.
Most controllers have primary operational modes: “Run” or “Auto,” “Off” or “Stop,” and “Program” or “Set Program.” The “Run” or “Auto” setting is the standard position for automated watering after programming is complete. The “Off” or “Stop” mode prevents all scheduled watering from running, which is useful during heavy rain or system maintenance. Setting the watering schedule itself is done under the “Program” mode.
Setting Up Automated Watering Schedules
Programming an automated schedule requires defining three core elements: the days to water, the start times, and the run times for each zone. Begin by selecting a specific program, often labeled A, B, or C, to assign a unique schedule to different areas of your property. Multiple programs are useful for managing distinct watering needs, such as separating a lawn area from a drip-irrigated flower bed.
Next, select the days of the week or the interval between watering days for the chosen program. For turfgrass, watering infrequently but deeply (two to three times per week) encourages deeper root growth. Then, set the start time, which dictates when the irrigation cycle will begin. It is best to set this for the early morning, ideally before 10 a.m., to minimize water loss from evaporation and reduce the risk of fungal disease.
Finally, set the run time, or “station duration,” for each individual zone connected to that program. This time should be customized based on the type of sprinkler head and the plant material in that zone. Spray heads often require three to ten minutes, while rotor heads need 20 to 40 minutes. Some controllers feature a “Water Budgeting” or “Seasonal Adjust” setting that allows you to increase or decrease all programmed run times by a percentage (e.g., 50% for cooler weather). This adjustment is an efficient way to adapt to changing seasonal weather conditions without manually reprogramming each zone.
Using Manual and Temporary Overrides
The automated schedule sometimes needs to be temporarily interrupted or supplemented using manual and delay features. Most controllers allow for manual operation, letting you run a single zone or an entire program immediately outside of the regular schedule. Initiating a manual run is typically done by selecting a “Manual” or “Semi-Auto” button and then specifying the zone and the desired run time.
A common temporary override is the “Rain Delay” feature, which is a valuable tool for water conservation after significant rainfall. This function allows you to suspend the automated schedule for a set period, commonly 24, 48, or 72 hours. Once the delay period expires, the controller automatically resumes the programmed schedule. Using the “Off” mode is a more permanent way to stop the system, but requires switching it back to “Run” to resume watering.
Seasonal System Activation and Deactivation
Properly activating and deactivating your system at the beginning and end of the watering season prevents expensive damage. For spring startup, ensure all drain valves are closed and the backflow prevention device is prepared. The primary step is slowly opening the main water supply valve to the irrigation system, often located near the backflow device.
This slow, gradual opening prevents a sudden pressure surge, known as water hammer, which can crack pipes and burst fittings. Once the system is pressurized, visually inspect all zones for leaks or damaged heads before returning the controller to the “Run” position.
For fall deactivation, or winterization, the main water supply must be turned off and the pipes fully drained to prevent water from freezing and expanding. In climates that experience freezing temperatures, a professional “blow-out” using compressed air is typically required to remove all residual water from the lines. Finally, the controller should be set to the “Off” position after the water supply is secured to prevent the system from attempting to run during the winter months.