Above-ground pools severely damage the underlying lawn primarily through three mechanisms: light deprivation, soil compression, and chemical exposure. Placing a large, opaque object on grass for an entire summer starves the turf of the sunlight required for photosynthesis, leading to rapid yellowing and death. The immense weight of the water compacts the soil, restricting the flow of air and water to the roots. The final threat comes from chemically treated pool water that is spilled or drained improperly. This article provides practical strategies to mitigate this damage before, during, and after the pool season.
Preparing the Site Before Installation
Selecting the pool’s location is the first step in minimizing lawn damage, prioritizing a spot that is naturally level to reduce the need for extensive ground alteration. While the area must be flat for the pool’s structural integrity, avoid scraping the entire area down to bare dirt, as this removes the organic matter needed for future grass regrowth. Instead, focus on removing soil from only the high points to achieve a level surface.
Beneath the pool, utilize a specialized, soft ground cloth or pool pad instead of a standard plastic tarp. These materials are designed to be permeable or breathable, preventing an excessive buildup of moisture and heat that can quickly rot the grass blades and roots. A pool pad also provides a softer buffer against the weight of the water, slightly lessening the compaction force on the underlying soil.
The grass underneath a seasonal pool will likely enter a state of dormancy or die back. By minimizing unnecessary soil disturbance and using a protective layer, the goal shifts from keeping the grass alive to preserving the soil’s structure and viability for the quickest possible recovery. This preparation makes the eventual repair process significantly easier and more effective.
Managing Pool Chemicals and Drainage
Chemicals are a major concern, as the treated water can drastically alter the soil’s chemistry. High concentrations of chlorine can burn grass tissue and disrupt the soil’s natural pH balance, which is necessary for nutrient absorption and healthy root growth. Maintaining the pool’s water within the ideal range—a pH of 7.0 to 7.8 and a free chlorine level of 1 to 3 parts per million (ppm)—minimizes the chemical threat from splashing and minor spills.
The area immediately surrounding the pool is most vulnerable to splash-out, which can create a ring of dead or stressed turf. Creating a designated splash zone around the pool perimeter protects the grass where chemical exposure is highest. Use non-grass materials, such as a ring of gravel, pavers, or a small wood deck, to create this barrier. This keeps chemically treated water from soaking into the adjacent turf and prevents the tracking of dirt into the pool.
When it is time to drain the pool, the water must be dechlorinated before release to prevent localized plant death. Stop adding chlorine or other sanitizers at least seven to ten days before draining. This allows natural processes like sunlight and evaporation to dissipate the residual chemical levels. If time is a constraint, a chemical neutralizer like sodium sulfite can be used to quickly break down the chlorine compounds in the water.
Before draining, test the water to confirm chlorine levels are near zero, ideally below 0.1 ppm. Drain the water slowly and consistently over a large, well-vegetated area. Move the drainage hose frequently to prevent oversaturation and flooding in any single spot. A discharge rate of no more than 30 gallons per minute is recommended to allow the soil to absorb the water gradually without causing harmful runoff or soil erosion.
Lawn Recovery After Pool Removal
Once the pool is removed, the grass underneath will appear pale yellow or brown from the lack of sunlight, a condition known as etiolation. Do not shock the stressed grass by immediately exposing it to intense, direct sun. Instead, remove the pool cover and pool pad in stages over a period of a few days. This allows the affected turf to acclimate slowly to the light and air.
The weight of the pool will have significantly compacted the soil, making immediate aeration necessary to restore air and water flow to the root zone. Use a core aerator or a garden fork to puncture the ground, creating small holes three to four inches deep across the entire affected area. This action relieves the compression and allows the roots to breathe, which is essential for stimulating new growth.
After aeration, apply a light application of a balanced, slow-release fertilizer to provide the necessary nutrients for recovery. Avoid high-nitrogen formulas that can burn already-stressed grass. Follow this with a deep, slow watering session to help flush any residual chemicals from the soil and encourage deep root growth.
If the grass is entirely dead and shows no signs of recovery after a week, it will require reseeding or patching. Rake the dead material and loosen the top inch of soil before overseeding the area with a fast-germinating grass seed variety appropriate for your climate. Cover the new seed with a thin layer of compost or peat moss to retain moisture. Consistent, light watering multiple times a day is necessary until the new seedlings are established, ensuring the soil remains moist but not waterlogged.