Moving an established, large plant from one location to another is a significant undertaking that carries the risk of transplant shock. These older specimens have extensive root systems, and the process of relocation severs the majority of their fine, water-absorbing roots. Preparation over several months is necessary to minimize damage and ensure the plant survives the temporary loss of its root mass. Following specific, phased instructions significantly increases the chances of the plant establishing itself successfully in its new environment.
Preparing for a Successful Transplant
The success of moving a large plant begins long before the shovel breaks ground. Transplanting should ideally occur when the plant is dormant, typically in late fall after leaf drop or in early spring before bud break, as this minimizes the plant’s moisture demand. Moving a plant during its active growth phase greatly increases the risk of transplant shock.
The single most impactful preparatory step is root pruning, a technique that encourages the formation of dense, new feeder roots close to the trunk. This process involves digging a circular trench around the plant at the planned perimeter of the future root ball, severing the long, outward-reaching anchor roots. By backfilling this trench with loose soil, the plant is stimulated to generate a concentrated mass of fine, water-absorbing root hairs within the area that will be moved.
The diameter of this preparatory cut should align with the size of the root ball required for the eventual move, which is often calculated based on the plant’s trunk diameter. Pre-watering the plant thoroughly a few days before the move ensures the root ball soil is moist enough to hold its shape during excavation. Before any digging commences, gather the necessary tools, including heavy-duty ropes for securing branches, a sharp trenching spade, and natural, untreated burlap or a wire basket for securing the root ball.
Excavating and Securing the Root Ball
The physical act of digging requires precision to ensure the root ball remains intact. The size of the root ball must be proportional to the size of the plant, with a widely accepted standard suggesting a minimum of 10 to 12 inches of ball diameter for every one inch of trunk caliper. Trunk caliper is measured six inches above the soil line for smaller trees, serving as the guide for the circular trenching cut.
Begin by digging a vertical trench around the perimeter established during the root pruning phase, ensuring the sides of the cut are clean and straight. Once the trench reaches the required depth, the next step is to undercut the root ball using a spade or specialized cutting tool to sever the main anchor roots beneath the mass. This undercutting should create a bowl-like shape, allowing the root ball to be completely separated from the subsoil.
As soon as the root ball is free, it must be immediately secured to prevent the soil from crumbling. Use untreated natural burlap or a specialized fabric wrap to cover the entire soil mass, lashing it tightly with twine or rope to maintain its structure. For very large specimens, a wire basket placed around the burlap provides the necessary structural support to keep the heavy soil mass stable during the lifting and transporting process. The sheer weight of a large root ball often necessitates the use of mechanical leverage to safely lift and transport the specimen to its new location.
Replanting the Specimen
The new planting hole must be prepared before the excavated specimen arrives to minimize the time the root ball is out of the ground. Dig the new hole two to three times wider than the root ball diameter, but no deeper than the height of the soil ball itself. This wider dimension provides loose soil for new root growth, while the shallow depth ensures the plant does not settle too low in the ground, preventing root suffocation.
Position the plant so that the root flare is visible at or slightly above the finished soil grade. Before backfilling, remove any non-biodegradable materials, such as synthetic twine or wire securing the top portion of the root ball, as these can girdle the trunk and roots as they grow. Natural burlap can be left in the hole, as it will decompose and not impede root growth.
Begin backfilling the hole with the original soil, working it gently around the root ball to eliminate large air pockets, tamping lightly as you proceed. Do not use soil amendments, as this can discourage roots from growing beyond the improved soil. After the hole is half-filled, saturate the soil with water to further settle the backfill and remove any remaining air pockets. Finally, create a small ring of soil, known as a watering berm, just outside the diameter of the root ball to help capture and direct water inward during the initial establishment period.
Post-Move Recovery and Care
After replanting, the focus shifts entirely to managing the plant’s recovery from the trauma of root loss. The most important factor for recovery is a rigorous, consistent watering regimen during the first growing season. Because the plant has lost the majority of its fine feeder roots, it cannot effectively draw moisture from the surrounding soil, making supplemental irrigation vital.
Water deeply and slowly soon after planting, and then maintain consistent soil moisture within the root ball, ensuring the area is moist but never waterlogged. This deep, infrequent watering encourages the roots to grow outward into the surrounding soil. To further minimize water loss through the leaves, a light pruning of the canopy can be beneficial, reducing the leaf area that demands moisture from the now-compromised root system.
Applying a two to three-inch layer of organic mulch over the entire planting area helps to conserve soil moisture and regulate soil temperature. Keep the mulch several inches away from the trunk itself to prevent moisture buildup that can lead to rot or create a habitat for pests. Monitor the plant closely for signs of stress, such as wilting or premature leaf drop, and avoid applying fertilizer during the first year, as this encourages top growth before the root system has recovered.