Moving an established plant, such as a large shrub or small tree, presents a significant challenge to its survival. These larger plants have extensive root systems that are inevitably damaged during relocation, leading to a state commonly referred to as transplant shock. Successful relocation hinges on minimizing root disturbance and encouraging the rapid regrowth of fine, water-absorbing feeder roots in the new environment. Proper technique, executed over several months, is necessary to ensure the specimen’s long-term health.
Preparing the Plant and Choosing the Best Time
The relocation process begins long before the shovel enters the ground, often requiring preparation six to twelve months in advance. Moving established plants is best accomplished during their dormant period, typically in late fall after leaf drop or in early spring before bud break. Moving a plant during active growth in the summer heat places immense stress on the specimen, as it struggles to supply water to its full canopy through a reduced root system.
The most beneficial pre-move step is root pruning, which conditions the plant to grow a dense, compact root ball near the trunk. This involves cutting a circular trench around the plant at the intended size of the future root ball, using a sharp spade to cleanly sever the outward-reaching roots. The root ball diameter should be about ten to twelve inches for every one inch of the trunk’s caliper, measured six inches above the soil line. Severing these large roots encourages a flush of new, fine feeder roots to grow within the defined area over the following months, which absorb water and nutrients.
When the time comes for the actual move, only minimal pruning of the canopy is recommended, primarily removing dead, broken, or rubbing branches. Severely cutting back the top growth does not compensate for root loss, as the leaves are the plant’s energy factories. Excessive canopy reduction limits the plant’s ability to photosynthesize, which is necessary to produce the energy required for new root growth. Tying up the lower branches with soft twine protects the foliage from damage and provides clearer access for digging.
Excavating and Securing the Root Ball
The size of the root ball is the single greatest determinant of success, as it dictates how many feeder roots are included in the move. For example, a tree with a three-inch trunk caliper requires a root ball that is a minimum of thirty inches in diameter, with a depth approximately sixty percent of the diameter. Before digging, thoroughly saturate the area around the plant with water to help the soil adhere to the roots.
To begin the excavation, dig a trench just outside the line where the roots were previously pruned, working carefully to keep the soil ball intact. The goal is to create a clean, firm ball of earth wrapped around the root mass. Once the trench is deep enough to reach below the root zone, undercut the root ball with a sharp spade or specialized tool. Drive the spade under the center of the ball at a forty-five-degree angle from all sides until the root ball is completely severed from the subsoil.
Immediately upon lifting, the root ball must be secured to prevent the soil from crumbling, which would sever the newly developed feeder roots. The traditional method involves wrapping the ball tightly in natural, untreated burlap, securing it with pinning nails and heavy twine. For very large specimens, a wire basket is often placed around the burlap to provide structural support during transport. Handle the ball by the secured material, never by the trunk, to avoid breaking the fragile connection between the roots and the soil.
Replanting and Ongoing Recovery
The new planting hole should be prepared before the plant is excavated, ensuring the transfer happens swiftly to prevent root desiccation. The hole should be two to three times wider than the root ball diameter, but precisely the same depth. Planting too deeply is a common mistake that can smother roots by limiting oxygen. Therefore, the root flare—the point where the trunk widens at the base—must be visible just above the surrounding soil line.
Once the plant is positioned in the hole, remove any non-biodegradable materials on the root ball, such as synthetic twine or plastic tags. Natural burlap and wire baskets should be cut away from the top third of the ball and folded down into the hole, leaving the material on the sides and bottom. Backfill the hole with the original soil, avoiding the addition of amendments that can create drainage problems.
The backfilling process requires deep watering, which helps settle the soil and eliminates air pockets that can dry out the roots. After backfill is complete, apply a two-to-three-inch layer of organic mulch over the planting area, extending outward to the edge of the hole. Mulch conserves moisture and moderates soil temperature, but it must be kept several inches away from the trunk to prevent moisture buildup and rot. Newly transplanted specimens require consistent, deep watering for at least a year until their root systems re-establish.