Moving a tree, a process known as transplanting, can be successful if executed with careful attention. The tree’s survival hinges on minimizing damage to the root system and managing the stress of the move. This guide focuses on techniques for smaller trees, typically those with a trunk diameter (caliper) up to three inches, which can be handled without specialized heavy machinery. Planning the move and preparing both the tree and its new home increases the chances of a healthy transition.
Planning the Move and Preparation
The optimal time to transplant a tree is when it is dormant, as this state minimizes the shock from root loss. For deciduous trees, this period occurs in late fall after leaves have dropped or in early spring before buds begin to swell. Moving a tree during dormancy reduces water loss through transpiration because the tree is not supporting a full canopy. Cooler soil temperatures also encourage new root growth without the stress of summer heat.
A preparatory step involves slightly reducing the tree’s crown to balance the inevitable loss of roots during excavation. A light reduction in the canopy, such as removing only dead or crossing branches, helps reduce water demand on the compromised root system. Securing the remaining branches by tying them loosely with soft twine protects them from damage during the physical move.
Preparing the new planting site well in advance ensures a seamless transition. The new hole should be dug two to three times the width of the anticipated root ball, but only as deep as the root ball itself. This wide, shallow hole ensures the surrounding soil is loosened, making it easier for new roots to expand outward. Keeping the excavated soil on a tarp nearby simplifies the backfilling process.
Excavating and Securing the Root Ball
Calculating the correct size for the root ball is the most important factor in the tree’s survival, as this structure contains the majority of the fine roots. A general guideline is that the root ball diameter should be about 10 to 12 inches for every one inch of the tree’s trunk caliper. Caliper is measured six inches above the soil line.
To begin the excavation, dig a trench around the tree at the calculated diameter, cutting cleanly through the roots with a sharp spade. The trench should extend straight down about 10 inches before tapering inward to a depth that ensures the root ball remains intact. For smaller trees, this depth is often 12 to 18 inches. The final step is to undercut the root ball from beneath to sever the taproot and remaining anchoring roots.
Immediately after the root ball is freed, it must be secured with natural burlap to prevent the soil from crumbling and severing fine roots. The burlap is placed into the trench, the tree is tipped onto it, and the fabric is pulled up around the ball. Secure the burlap tightly with twine or specialized pinning nails. This process maintains the structural integrity and moisture of the root ball until the tree is placed in its final location.
Transporting and Setting the Tree in the New Location
The secured root ball must be handled with care during the move to prevent cracking or shifting of the soil mass. For trees moved manually, the ball can be set onto sturdy plywood, a tarp, or a dolly to be slid or rolled to the new location. It is important to lift or pull the root ball itself, rather than using the trunk as a lever, which could damage the root-to-stem connection.
Before placing the tree in the prepared hole, determine the true planting depth by locating the root flare, which is the natural widening of the trunk at the base. The tree should be positioned so the root flare sits at or slightly above the surrounding soil grade, as planting too deeply can lead to root suffocation and decline. Once the tree is centered, the top third of the burlap and any securing twine or wire must be cut away and removed.
Backfilling the hole involves using the original soil and gently breaking up any large clumps. Avoid using excessive soil amendments, which can discourage roots from growing into the native soil. The soil is added incrementally and gently firmed to eliminate large air pockets. However, avoid tamping too aggressively, which causes compaction. A thorough watering after backfilling helps the soil settle naturally around the root ball.
Essential Care Immediately After Transplanting
The first few weeks after transplanting are a period of high stress, necessitating careful monitoring of soil moisture. Watering should be deep and thorough to saturate the entire root ball and the surrounding backfill soil. A general guideline is to apply one to one-and-a-half gallons of water per inch of trunk caliper at each watering. In the initial weeks, this may require daily watering, gradually reducing the frequency as the tree begins to establish.
Staking a newly transplanted tree is often unnecessary and can hinder the development of a strong trunk and root system. However, staking may be needed in windy sites or with a loose root ball. If staking is required, the ties should be loose and flexible, allowing the tree some movement. Remove the ties after one growing season to prevent girdling the trunk, as the goal is temporary support.
Applying a two to four-inch layer of organic mulch around the tree helps conserve soil moisture and regulate soil temperature, which benefits root growth. Spread the mulch in a wide circle, extending out to the edge of the planting hole. It is important to keep the mulch several inches away from the trunk itself. Piling mulch directly against the trunk can trap moisture against the bark and invite pests or disease.