Transplanting a tree successfully by hand requires careful planning and execution to maximize its chances of survival. This method is strictly limited to small or medium-sized trees, generally those with a trunk diameter of two inches or less, as the root ball quickly becomes too heavy to manage without specialized machinery. When moved, a tree experiences “transplant shock” due to the inevitable loss of a significant portion of its root system. Proper technique is necessary to help the tree establish new roots that can absorb water and nutrients in its new location.
Pre-Move Preparation
The best time to move a tree is during its dormant season, typically in late autumn after the leaves have dropped or in early spring before the buds swell. Moving the tree while dormant slows its metabolic processes, reducing the water demand that the reduced root system cannot yet supply. A few days before the move, thoroughly soak the ground around the tree to ensure the soil is moist, which helps the root ball hold its shape during extraction.
The size of the soil mass, known as the root ball, is determined by the tree’s caliper, which is its trunk diameter measured six inches above the soil line. A reliable rule of thumb for small trees is to aim for a root ball diameter that is 10 to 12 inches for every one inch of trunk caliper. For example, a two-inch caliper tree requires digging a root ball 20 to 24 inches across to encompass enough severed roots for successful re-establishment.
Do not heavily prune the tree’s canopy to compensate for the lost roots. The leaves are the tree’s energy factories, producing the sugars and hormones required to stimulate new root growth, and removing too much foliage hinders this process. Limit pruning to removing only dead, broken, or crossing branches to improve the tree’s structure before the move. Prepare the receiving hole at the new site first, ensuring it is two to three times wider than the root ball but no deeper.
Digging and Extracting the Tree
Begin the physical extraction by using a sharp spade to mark a circle corresponding to the calculated root ball diameter. Dig a vertical trench straight down along this line, about 18 to 24 inches deep, which will cleanly sever the lateral roots. Ensure the trench is wide enough for comfortable work.
Once the trench encircles the tree, undercut the root ball from beneath to sever the deeper taproots. Carefully angle the spade blade inward beneath the root ball, working around the entire circumference until the soil mass is fully detached from the subsoil. The surrounding soil must remain intact, as it protects the feeder roots and provides immediate support for the tree.
The detached root ball is heavy and fragile, requiring immediate protection before lifting. Gently tip the tree to one side and slide a large piece of heavy-duty material, such as burlap or thick plastic, into the trench on the opposite side. Roll the root ball back onto the material, then snugly wrap the sides around the soil mass, securing it tightly with twine or rope to prevent crumbling during transport. Use assistance and a sturdy hand truck or dolly to move the wrapped root ball to its new location, handling it carefully to avoid jarring the soil mass.
Replanting and Immediate Settling
The new planting hole should have a firm base of undisturbed soil so the tree does not settle deeper over time. Place the root ball into the center of the hole, ensuring the root flare—where the trunk widens at the base—is positioned at or slightly above the surrounding soil grade. Planting too deeply is a common mistake that can suffocate the roots and lead to the tree’s decline.
If the root ball was wrapped in natural burlap, remove any twine or wire and cut the top portion of the burlap away from the trunk. Synthetic or treated burlap must be completely removed, as it will not decompose and can restrict new root growth. Backfill the hole with the original soil, breaking up any large clumps, and gently firm the soil around the sides of the root ball to eliminate air pockets.
Once the hole is completely backfilled, a thorough, deep watering is required immediately to settle the soil and hydrate the roots. A good benchmark for this initial soak is to provide two to three gallons of water for every inch of the tree’s trunk diameter. This ensures the entire root ball is saturated and helps establish the necessary soil-to-root contact for water absorption.
Crucial Aftercare for Successful Recovery
The first year after transplanting is the most taxing on the tree, and consistent moisture is the most important factor for recovery. For the first week, water the tree daily to help it recover from the initial shock. After this initial period, transition to deep, slow watering once or twice a week, allowing the water to soak into the entire root zone.
Deep watering encourages the roots to grow downward into the surrounding soil, establishing an extensive root system. Monitor the soil moisture by checking a few inches below the surface; the soil should remain consistently moist but never waterlogged, which can lead to root rot. Continue this watering regimen through the first full growing season.
Apply a two-to-four-inch layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or shredded bark, in a wide circle extending from the trunk out to the edge of the planting hole. Mulch helps retain soil moisture, regulates soil temperature, and reduces competition from grass and weeds. Ensure the mulch is kept several inches away from the trunk to prevent moisture buildup against the bark, which can encourage disease. Only stake the tree if it is top-heavy or in a location with high winds, using flexible ties and removing the support after one year.