Moving a tree successfully involves careful planning and execution to ensure the delicate root system remains viable during the transition. For transplanting purposes, a “small tree” is typically defined as one under 15 feet in height, with a trunk diameter less than 2 inches, or any size that can be safely managed by one or two individuals. The primary objective is to successfully relocate the specimen while minimizing transplant shock, which occurs when a large portion of the root mass is lost.
Determining the Best Time and Size
The timing of the move significantly influences the tree’s ability to survive relocation stress. Transplanting should take place when the tree is dormant, either in the late fall after leaves have dropped or in the early spring before buds swell. Moving the tree during dormancy allows it to better handle the disturbance to its root system before the active growing season begins.
Before digging, calculating the appropriate size of the root ball is necessary. The root ball size determines how many fine, water-absorbing feeder roots will be moved with the tree. A common guideline suggests retaining a root ball diameter of 10 to 12 inches for every 1 inch of the trunk diameter, measured six inches above the soil line. For example, a tree with a 2-inch trunk diameter requires a root ball roughly 20 to 24 inches across.
Excavating and Preparing the Root Ball
The physical process of removing the tree requires precision to preserve the fragile root mass. Begin by marking a circle on the ground corresponding to the calculated root ball diameter. Using a sharp spade, start trenching vertically around the perimeter of the marked circle. Making clean, decisive cuts severs the roots cleanly rather than tearing them.
Work the spade around the entire circumference of the root ball, cutting straight down to create a manageable mass. Once the trench is complete, carefully begin to undercut the root ball from the sides toward the center. Gently rock or tilt the tree to expose the bottom of the root mass, ensuring the ball remains intact and the soil does not crumble away. Keeping the soil together is important for the tree’s immediate post-transplant health.
Immediately after the root ball is freed, protect it for transport. Slide burlap or specialized fabric underneath the ball, rolling it slightly to work the material into place. Pull the fabric up and around the sides, securing it tightly at the top with twine or rope. This wrapping stabilizes the soil and roots, preventing them from drying out or being damaged. Handle the wrapped ball carefully and avoid lifting the tree by its trunk, as this can cause internal tissue damage or separate the root ball from the stem.
Replanting and Immediate Aftercare
The new planting site must be prepared before the tree is moved to minimize the time the roots are exposed. The receiving hole should be dug two to three times wider than the diameter of the wrapped root ball, which provides loosened soil for future root growth. The depth of the hole should be no deeper than the height of the root ball itself. Planting the tree too deeply can lead to suffocated roots, so the root flare—the point where the trunk widens at the soil line—must remain visible once the tree is settled.
Carefully set the wrapped root ball into the center of the newly dug hole. Once the tree is positioned correctly, remove any rope or twine securing the wrapping material. If using natural burlap, peel back and remove the top one-third of the fabric, allowing the remaining material to decompose naturally. Synthetic materials must be completely removed, as they will not break down and can constrict future root growth.
Begin backfilling the hole with the original native soil, avoiding excessive amendments, which can discourage roots from spreading beyond the planting area. As the hole is filled, gently tamp the soil to eliminate large air pockets that can dry out the roots. Create a low, circular soil berm or “water ring” just outside the edge of the newly planted root ball to help direct water toward the root zone during initial establishment.
Water the planting area slowly and deeply until the soil is saturated. This helps settle the soil around the roots and provides immediate hydration. Finally, apply a 2-to-4-inch layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips, over the entire backfilled area to conserve moisture and regulate soil temperature. Keep the mulch several inches away from the trunk itself to prevent moisture buildup that could lead to rot or attract pests.