Many popular orchid species, such as Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and Dendrobium, are epiphytes, meaning they naturally grow on other plants, like trees, rather than in soil. Mounting an orchid involves securing the plant to a solid substrate, typically wood, to replicate this natural growing condition. This method provides the excellent air circulation and rapid drainage that these specialized roots require for healthy growth and allows the roots to attach and grow freely.
Selecting Appropriate Materials
Focus on rot resistance and chemical neutrality when selecting the mounting substrate. Cork bark is favored due to its natural resistance, light weight, and rough texture, which provides an ideal anchor for new roots. Other suitable options include dense, rot-resistant hardwoods like teak or oak driftwood, provided they have not been chemically treated. Avoid softwoods, such as pine, or any pressure-treated wood, as they decompose quickly or leach toxins harmful to the root system.
Non-degrading fasteners are necessary to temporarily secure the plant until the roots naturally adhere to the wood. Commonly used options include clear fishing line (monofilament), thin wire, or natural fiber twine (jute or coconut fiber). Plastic zip ties may also be used, provided they are not cinched too tightly against the rhizome or roots, which could cause damage.
Sphagnum moss is often used as a moisture-retaining padding layer between the roots and the wood. This helps maintain a humid microclimate surrounding the root ball, encouraging initial root growth. The moss layer must be thin and should not completely surround the roots, as excessive moisture retention can lead to fungal issues and root suffocation.
Preparing the Wood and Orchid
Before mounting, both the wood and the orchid require careful preparation. Newly acquired wood, especially driftwood or salvaged pieces, should be thoroughly cleaned to remove soil, debris, or pests. Sterilization involves boiling the wood for several hours or soaking it in a weak solution of bleach or hydrogen peroxide, followed by a complete rinse.
This cleaning process eliminates fungal spores, bacteria, and insects. Allow the sterilized wood to dry completely before proceeding with the mounting process.
Gently remove the orchid from its existing pot, taking care not to damage the root tips. Completely clear away the old potting medium, such as bark chips or sphagnum peat, from the root mass. Any roots that are soft, hollow, brown, or mushy (indicating they are dead or diseased) should be carefully trimmed using sterilized shears. Healthy roots appear firm and white, green, or silvery.
The Physical Mounting Process
Mounting requires precision to ensure the plant is stable and correctly oriented for future growth. Position the orchid on the wood so its roots are spread flat against the substrate and its growing tip, or rhizome, faces upwards. Proper orientation ensures new root growth will naturally grasp the wood and prevents water runoff from collecting in the crown, which can cause rot.
Once positioned, place a thin, flattened layer of pre-moistened sphagnum moss directly over the root system. This layer should cover the roots without protruding excessively past the root mass. The moss acts as a temporary moisture reservoir, but apply it sparsely so the central portion of the plant and its rhizome remain exposed to air circulation.
Secure the root ball and surrounding moss firmly to the wood using the chosen fastener. Run the fishing line or twine over the root mass and around the back of the wood, repeating the process several times to create a stable anchor. The fasteners must cross the root mass multiple times but should never be pulled so tightly that they cut into or compress the root tissue or the plant’s rhizome.
A well-secured mount will prevent any movement of the plant when the wood is gently shaken, which is a factor for successful attachment. Root movement can continually shear off new root tips, preventing the orchid from adhering to the substrate. The goal is a snug fit that holds the plant rigidly in place while allowing the roots to expand.
Affix a hanging mechanism to the top of the mount for proper display and watering access. A galvanized wire loop or a sturdy hook screwed into the wood provides a reliable point for suspension. Hanging the mount vertically allows for optimal light exposure and promotes the rapid drainage that mimics the orchid’s natural environment.
Long-Term Care for Mounted Orchids
Once mounted, the orchid’s care regimen must adjust due to the rapid drying rate of the exposed roots. Mounted orchids require more frequent watering, often daily or multiple times a day during warmer seasons. This is because the lack of a substantial potting medium means moisture evaporates quickly from the thin moss layer and exposed roots.
Watering can be accomplished by soaking the entire mount in a basin of water for 10 to 15 minutes or by thoroughly running water over the roots until they turn green. Misting is generally insufficient as a sole watering method, though it can help temporarily increase local humidity.
Fertilization should follow a “weakly, weekly” schedule, using a highly dilute fertilizer solution, perhaps one-quarter to one-eighth of the recommended strength. Apply the fertilizer during the normal watering process, ensuring micronutrients are supplied to the roots that are no longer buffered by a traditional potting mix.
High light exposure is beneficial, but the increased air movement around the exposed roots necessitates maintaining higher ambient humidity levels, ideally above 50%, to prevent dehydration.