Epiphytic orchids are “air plants” that naturally grow attached to trees and rocks, deriving moisture and nutrients from rain and air rather than soil. Mounting these orchids onto palm trees mimics their tropical environment, providing the necessary air circulation and drainage their specialized roots require. This practice is non-parasitic; the orchid uses the palm only for physical support without drawing sustenance from the host. Mounting orchids offers an aesthetically pleasing way to integrate exotic blooms into the landscape, often fostering healthier growth than traditional potting methods.
Choosing Orchids and Palm Hosts
Selecting the appropriate orchid and host palm is the initial step for a successful mounting project. Orchids with thick, leathery leaves and pseudobulbs, such as Cattleya or Vanda species, are generally well-suited for mounting, tolerating sun and quick-drying conditions. These sun-loving varieties thrive on exposed palm trunks, which offer brighter light than dense canopies. Thinner-leaved orchids like many Phalaenopsis prefer shadier conditions and may need placement lower on the trunk or on the north or east side of the palm to avoid harsh afternoon sun.
The host should be a true palm, as their fibrous trunks provide a decent anchor point. Avoid mounting on the highly toxic Sago Palm (Cycas revoluta), which is a cycad often mistaken for a palm. Position the orchid far enough down the trunk to avoid the palm’s crown shaft, where shedding fronds could cause damage. The location must allow the roots to grasp the bark without being submerged in standing water.
Step-by-Step Mounting Technique
Preparation begins by removing all old potting mix, such as bark chips or sphagnum moss, from the orchid’s roots. Any dead or mushy roots should be carefully trimmed away using sterile shears, leaving only the firm, healthy root system. A small cushion of fresh sphagnum moss or coconut fiber can be placed over the cleaned roots to help retain initial moisture while the plant establishes itself. This cushion should be minimal to ensure maximum airflow around the root system and prevent premature rot.
The orchid is then positioned against the palm trunk, ensuring the growing point or rhizome is pressed firmly against the bark. Securing the orchid requires a temporary, non-abrasive, and ideally biodegradable material like natural jute twine, nylon stockings, or flexible garden tie. Wrap the securing material tightly around the root mass and the palm trunk several times, holding the orchid immobile against the bark. The stem and growing tip must remain uncovered by the moss and the tie to prevent stem rot.
Post-Mounting Care and Establishment
Immediately after mounting, the orchid requires frequent watering to encourage new root growth and prevent dehydration. During the establishment phase, which can last six to twelve months, the roots should be watered daily or multiple times a day during dry weather, allowing them to dry out quickly in between. Once secured, a balanced fertilizer solution should be applied using the “weakly, weekly” method. This means a solution diluted to about one-quarter the strength recommended on the package is applied frequently. This highly dilute solution can be sprayed directly onto the exposed roots and leaves, mimicking the nutrient uptake from rainwater in nature.
Successful establishment is confirmed when new, actively growing root tips emerge and begin to adhere firmly to the palm bark. These new roots typically have vibrant green tips, indicating active growth and successful adaptation. Once the plant is fully established, the temporary securing material can be removed. Watering frequency can then be slightly reduced, though it will remain more frequent than for potted orchids due to the exposed roots.
Addressing Potential Problems
Several issues can arise with newly mounted orchids, the most common being the failure of the plant to attach or structural failure of the mount itself. If the orchid loosens before the roots have grasped the palm, it must be immediately re-secured using the temporary ties to prevent root damage from movement. Sunburn is another frequent problem, appearing as bleached or black patches on the leaves. This requires promptly moving the plant to a shadier location on the palm.
Excessive water retention from too much sphagnum moss or poor air circulation can lead to root or stem rot. This necessitates the careful removal of the rotting tissue and application of a fungicide like powdered cinnamon. Pests like scale insects or mealybugs may also appear. These can be treated by physically removing them with a cotton swab dipped in a 70% isopropyl alcohol solution. Addressing these issues quickly is important to prevent stress that can hinder the orchid’s ability to establish on the palm.