The Fiddle Leaf Fig (Ficus lyrata) is prized for its large, sculptural foliage, but it naturally tends to grow as a single, unbranched column. This upward-focused growth is a survival mechanism that helps the plant compete for sunlight in its native environment. For those seeking a fuller, bushier plant with a classic tree shape, this single-stem habit presents a challenge. Horticultural techniques can override the plant’s natural inclination, encouraging the development of lateral branches by activating dormant bud sites along the trunk.
Pruning the Apex to Force Branching
Fiddle Leaf Figs grow straight up due to apical dominance. The apex produces auxin, a hormone that travels downward, suppressing lateral buds further down the trunk. This ensures the plant dedicates resources to vertical extension.
To successfully force branching, remove this source of the growth-inhibiting hormone. This process, called “topping,” involves cleanly cutting off the main vertical stem at the desired branching height. Perform this intervention during the plant’s active growing season, typically late spring or early summer, when it has the energy reserves for recovery and new growth.
Before cutting, sterilize your pruning shears or sharp knife with rubbing alcohol to prevent pathogens. The cut should be made just above a leaf node—the swollen area where a leaf is attached or has fallen off—as this is where the dormant lateral buds are located.
The severity of the cut correlates with the vigor of the resulting new growth. Removing a longer section of the stem lowers the concentration of growth-suppressing auxin, encouraging multiple buds to activate below the cut site and develop into new lateral branches.
Notching for Targeted Side Growth
A less drastic method for encouraging branching is notching or scoring, particularly if preserving the plant’s current height is desired. This technique locally interrupts the flow of auxin to specific dormant buds along the stem, allowing the owner to choose exactly where a new branch will emerge.
Notching involves making a small, shallow cut directly into the stem just above a chosen node. The node is identifiable as a bump or ring where a leaf once grew, housing the potential lateral bud. The cut must penetrate the vascular tissue where the auxin travels but not structurally compromise the stem.
Using a clean, sharp blade, make an incision approximately one-quarter to one-third of the stem’s diameter. Position the cut just a quarter-inch above the node you wish to activate. This wound blocks the downward passage of auxin, signaling the dormant bud immediately below it to begin growing.
The plant will exude a white, milky sap (latex) from the cut site, which is a normal defense mechanism and should be wiped away gently. Because notching is a localized disruption, results may take longer compared to topping. It is common to notch two or three spots on the trunk, spaced several inches apart, to increase the chances of successful branching.
Essential Care for Activating New Buds
Physical intervention is only the first step; the environment must be optimized to support recovery and energy expenditure. New branch growth requires significant photosynthetic energy, so the Fiddle Leaf Fig must be placed in a location receiving bright, indirect light. Insufficient light after the procedure is the most common reason for failure, as the plant cannot generate the energy needed for new growth.
Optimal temperatures and humidity levels support recovery speed. Fiddle Leaf Figs thrive in warm conditions, with temperatures consistently between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. A warm environment helps the plant metabolize faster, accelerating wound healing and bud activation.
A consistent watering routine is important to maintain hydration without causing root stress. Allow the top two inches of soil to dry out completely before watering thoroughly until excess drains from the bottom. Applying a balanced, diluted liquid fertilizer after the intervention provides the nutrients to fuel the generation of new wood and foliage.