Tomato cages provide necessary support for plants, which are naturally sprawling vines that become heavy with fruit. A sturdy structure elevates the foliage and fruit off the ground, which prevents soil-borne diseases. This elevation also improves air circulation around the plant canopy, helping leaves dry quickly and reducing the risk of fungal infections. A well-built cage supports the plant’s weight, prevents vine breakage, and leads to a healthier, more productive harvest.
Essential Materials and Tools
The foundation of a durable DIY tomato cage is concrete reinforcing mesh, often called CRM or remesh. This welded wire material is typically sold in rolls and features a 6-inch by 6-inch grid pattern, allowing easy access for harvesting and pruning. For robust, tall cages suitable for indeterminate varieties, the mesh should be at least five feet tall and made from heavy 10-gauge wire for strength.
Working with this thick wire requires specific tools for efficiency and safety. Heavy-duty bolt cutters are needed to cleanly slice through the steel wires, as standard wire cutters are insufficient. A measuring tape determines the correct length for the cage’s circumference before cutting. Heavy-duty work gloves are essential to protect hands from sharp wire ends during fabrication.
Step-by-Step: Constructing Cylindrical Wire Cages
Construction begins by determining the desired diameter of the finished cage, typically 18 to 24 inches for a stable structure. Use the circumference formula (Circumference = Diameter x 3.14) to calculate the required mesh length. Add an extra section of wire squares to allow for overlapping and securing the edges. Unroll the CRM on a flat surface and use the bolt cutters to cut the mesh to size, cutting through the middle of a row of wire squares lengthwise.
Next, bend the flat mesh piece into a cylinder shape. The wire’s natural coil simplifies this process, but proceed with caution and wear protective gloves. To secure the cylinder, overlap the two cut ends. Use the loose wire ends created by cutting through the mesh squares to hook around the vertical wires of the opposite side. Alternatively, fasten the overlapped section at the top, middle, and bottom using heavy-duty zip ties or tie wire to create a closed seam.
Before the cage is complete, cut away the bottom horizontal wire ring entirely using the bolt cutters. This leaves the vertical wires extending downward, which act as sharp spikes to anchor the cage firmly into the soil. This self-anchoring feature enhances the finished cage’s stability.
Alternative Support Structures
For gardeners who prefer a linear setup, the “Florida Weave” method offers an effective alternative support system. This technique requires sturdy wooden or metal stakes, such as T-posts, driven into the ground along a row of tomato plants. A stake is placed between every one or two plants down the row, ensuring a strong vertical framework.
Support is created by weaving durable garden twine back and forth between the stakes, sandwiching the tomato plants between parallel lines of string. The first line of twine should be tied securely to an end post about eight inches above the ground when the plants are small. New lines are added every six to eight inches as the plants grow taller. This method provides lateral support, keeping the plants upright and contained within the row.
Another simple, non-wire option is the tripod stake structure, suitable for a few large, indeterminate plants. This involves driving three long, sturdy stakes—such as bamboo poles or wooden furring strips—into the ground around a single plant. The tops of the three stakes are gathered and securely tied with twine or rope to form a stable pyramid shape. As the tomato plant grows, the main stems are loosely tied to the inside of these stakes for support.
Installation and Long-Term Placement
Proper installation begins by placing the completed wire cage over the young tomato plant immediately after transplanting or when the seedling is small. Attempting to install a cage over a large, sprawling plant can damage branches and roots, so early placement is important. The vertical wire spikes at the bottom of the cage should be pushed firmly into the soil, sinking at least six inches deep for initial stability.
For extra security, especially in windy locations or for tall indeterminate varieties, the cage should be anchored with additional support. Drive a piece of rebar or a metal T-post outside the cage perimeter and secure the cage to it using heavy-duty zip ties or wire. The rebar should be driven at least one to two feet deep to resist the leverage exerted by a fruit-laden plant. At the end of the growing season, the cages can be stored flat if the seam was secured with removable zip ties, or stored upright if space allows, to ensure they remain in good condition for future use.