Peonies are desired cut flowers, but they often arrive with tightly closed buds. Moving these buds from a closed state to a fully-flared bloom requires specific interventions once they are in the vase. These steps are designed to speed up the natural process, ensuring you can enjoy the full spectacle of a peony bloom in your home.
Essential Steps for Bud Preparation
When peony stems are brought indoors, they need immediate preparation to maximize water absorption and prevent blockage. Fill a clean vase with fresh, cool water, ensuring all debris is removed to deter bacterial growth. Use a sharp knife or shears to recut the stem ends at a 45-degree angle. This angled slice increases the surface area for water uptake.
Recutting is most effective when performed while the stem end is submerged underwater, which prevents air from entering the vascular system. Air bubbles, known as embolisms, can block the vessels, preventing the flower from drawing water. Next, strip away all foliage that will sit below the waterline in the vase. Submerged leaves quickly decompose, encouraging bacteria that foul the water and clog the stem.
Once conditioned, place the prepared stems into the vase of cool water in a location that is cool and out of direct sunlight. This initial hydration phase, lasting several hours, allows the stem to hydrate without the stress of heat or sun exposure. This foundational stage is necessary before attempting active forcing techniques, as a well-hydrated stem is more responsive.
Techniques for Encouraging Quick Bloom
Once initial conditioning is complete, active methods can encourage a quick opening of stubborn buds. The most effective technique involves replacing the cool water with tepid water, ideally between 100 and 110 degrees Fahrenheit. This warmer temperature is absorbed more efficiently by the stem, as the water molecules move faster. This rapid uptake provides an immediate surge of hydration to the tight petals.
The tepid water should contain a floral preservative, which provides a carbohydrate source, a biocide, and an acidifier. A simple homemade solution uses two tablespoons of white vinegar, two tablespoons of sugar, and half a teaspoon of household bleach per quart of water. The sugar acts as food, the bleach controls bacteria growth, and the vinegar lowers the water’s pH to facilitate faster water movement.
Another method addresses the sticky sap that peonies exude, which can glue the outer petals shut. Gently swish the entire bud head, face down, in a bowl of warm water for 10 to 15 seconds. This action dissolves the sugary coating without damaging the inner petals. After rinsing, return the stem to the prepared vase of warm, preserved water and place it in a bright, warm location.
Addressing Buds That Refuse to Open
Even with intervention, some buds may fail to open, often related to the stage at which the flower was cut. To check viability, perform the “marshmallow test” by gently squeezing the bud. A bud that feels slightly soft, like a marshmallow, has enough stored energy to open; a rock-hard bud was cut too early and will likely remain closed.
If a bud was cut correctly but still refuses to open, the sticky sap is usually the culprit, which the warm water swish method addresses. The sap, which normally attracts ants in the garden to loosen petals, must be manually removed indoors. If a bud begins to darken or turn mushy, it may be suffering from bud rot (botrytis) and should be discarded immediately to prevent the spread of fungal spores.
Once peonies have opened into their full form, long-term care shifts from forcing to preservation. Move the vase from the warm, bright location to a cooler spot out of direct drafts or sunlight to slow the metabolic process and extend vase life. To maintain freshness, the water should be changed every one to two days, and the stems should be recut every few days, repeating the diagonal cut.