Mead is an ancient and historically significant fermented drink, often called honey wine, defined by its primary sugar source: honey mixed with water. Evidence of this beverage dates back to Chinese pottery from 7000 BCE, establishing it as potentially the oldest alcoholic drink known. The term metheglin refers specifically to mead that includes spices or herbs. Modern home brewing allows enthusiasts to create various styles, ranging from light and dry to rich, sweet dessert meads.
Essential Supplies and Sanitization
Successful mead brewing requires a rigorous approach to cleanliness and equipment. The basic setup includes a food-grade fermentation vessel, such as a carboy or plastic bucket, fitted with an airlock to allow carbon dioxide to escape while preventing airborne contaminants from entering. Essential tools include a hydrometer to measure the must’s specific gravity, a wine thief for sample collection, and a siphon or racking cane and tubing for transferring the mead without disturbing sediment.
Contamination from unwanted microorganisms is a significant threat that can lead to off-flavors or complete spoilage of the batch. Therefore, every piece of equipment that will contact the must or the finished mead must be meticulously cleaned and sanitized. Cleaning removes visible soil and residue, while sanitizing eliminates the microscopic bacteria and wild yeast that cleaning alone misses.
Chemical sanitizers formulated for brewing, such as Star San, are highly effective and often require only a short contact time without the need for rinsing. Another option is potassium metabisulfite, often used in conjunction with a cleaner. Maintaining this strict protocol is the most important step for ensuring a clean fermentation and a high-quality finished product.
Creating the Must and Pitching Yeast
The preparation of the must, the honey and water mixture that the yeast will ferment, determines the final character of the mead. The quality of the honey is paramount, with raw, unpasteurized honey being preferred by many brewers. The water source should be free of chlorine, as this can inhibit yeast activity, making purified, spring, or charcoal-filtered tap water ideal.
A common ratio is approximately three pounds of honey per gallon of water for a standard-strength mead, although this can be adjusted for sweeter or drier results. Before fermentation begins, a hydrometer reading is taken to determine the Original Gravity (OG), which indicates the total sugar content and allows for the calculation of the potential alcohol by volume (ABV). Heating the honey and water can aid in mixing.
The must must be cooled to the appropriate temperature range, typically between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, before the yeast is introduced. Specialized wine yeasts, such as Lalvin EC-1118 or D-47, are recommended because they are robust and have high alcohol tolerance. The process of adding the yeast, called “pitching,” often involves rehydrating the dry yeast in warm water first. Once the yeast is pitched, the must should be vigorously aerated to introduce oxygen, which the yeast requires for the initial growth phase.
Primary and Secondary Fermentation
Following the pitching of the yeast, the solution enters the primary fermentation stage, characterized by the yeast consuming the honey’s sugars to produce ethanol, carbon dioxide, and various flavor compounds. This phase is typically vigorous and can last anywhere from one to four weeks, depending on the yeast strain, temperature, and sugar content. The visible sign of this activity is a steady stream of bubbles escaping through the airlock. The fermenter should be kept in a dark location with a consistent temperature, ideally in the 60 to 75-degree Fahrenheit range.
Once the rapid bubbling slows significantly, the mead is ready to be transferred to a secondary vessel in a process called “racking.” Racking involves siphoning the liquid off the layer of dead yeast cells and other sediment, known as the lees, which have settled at the bottom. This separation is performed to prevent the development of off-flavors that can occur if the mead sits on the lees for too long.
The secondary fermentation stage is less about active fermentation and more about clarification, mellowing, and bulk aging. The mead remains in the secondary vessel for several months or longer, allowing the remaining yeast to settle and the flavors to integrate. A Final Gravity (FG) reading confirms that fermentation is complete and that the specific gravity has stabilized. The vessel should be filled to minimize headspace, reducing oxygen exposure, which can lead to spoilage or sherry-like off-flavors.
Aging, Clarification, and Bottling
The final stage involves conditioning the mead, beginning with the process of bulk aging. Extended aging, often lasting six months to a year, allows the harsh notes of young alcohol to diminish and the complex honey flavors to fully express themselves. The mead should be stored in a cool, dark environment during this period to ensure slow, steady maturation.
Clarification methods are used to achieve a bright, clear appearance by encouraging suspended particles to settle out of the liquid. Cold crashing, which involves placing the mead in a refrigerator or cold space, is a simple way to accelerate settling. Fining agents, such as bentonite clay, can also be added to bind with haze-causing proteins and yeast, making them drop to the bottom of the vessel.
Before bottling, confirm that fermentation has completely stopped. Residual sugars could restart fermentation in the sealed bottle, potentially creating a bottle bomb. If the mead is not fully dry, chemical stabilizers must be added to prevent renewed yeast activity. The finished mead is then siphoned into sanitized bottles, sealed with corks or crown caps. Filling the bottles from the bottom up minimizes splashing and further oxygen exposure, preserving the flavors.