Garden hoops are simple structures that create a protective microclimate over garden beds. These frameworks are utilized primarily for season extension, shielding tender plants from late or early frosts, or for creating a physical barrier to deter pests and provide necessary shade. By supporting a chosen covering material, the hoops prevent it from resting directly on the foliage, ensuring proper air circulation and minimizing plant damage. Constructing these structures is an accessible and cost-effective way to enhance garden productivity and protect vulnerable crops.
Selecting Materials and Preparation
The foundation of a durable hoop system lies in selecting an appropriate material for the arches. Flexible polyvinyl chloride (PVC) piping is a popular choice, valued for its low cost, light weight, and general availability. However, PVC may degrade when exposed to ultraviolet light and is not suitable for supporting heavy loads like significant snow accumulation.
A more robust alternative is metal electrical conduit, which provides superior strength and durability, making it ideal for larger structures or windy environments. Fiberglass rods offer an excellent balance, being resilient, lightweight, and capable of bending without crimping, though they often cost more than PVC. Before assembly begins, the material must be measured to the length required to span the bed and create the desired arch height, then cut using a pipe cutter or hacksaw.
Step-by-Step Frame Assembly
The initial step in frame assembly is to securely anchor the hoop material into the ground or raised bed frame. For in-ground gardens, this is achieved by driving pieces of steel rebar, typically 24 inches long, into the soil at the edges of the bed. The rebar should be hammered in until 4 to 8 inches are left exposed above the soil line, acting as a sturdy socket for the hoop ends.
Once the anchors are set, the pre-cut pipe or rod is gently bent into an arc and its ends are slipped over the exposed rebar stakes on either side of the bed. This creates the symmetrical, half-circle shape of the hoop, with the tension from the bend providing structural stability. For raised beds, the hoops can be secured directly to the wooden frame using specialized pipe straps, U-bolts, or metal brackets.
To enhance the frame’s rigidity and prevent the hoops from sagging or twisting, a horizontal ridge pole is necessary. This top rail, often a straight length of the same piping material, is run along the apex of the structure, resting on the interior curve of each arch. The ridge pole is then fastened to the top of every hoop using cable ties, twine, or small U-bolts, which locks the entire skeleton into a single, unified structure.
Sizing and Spacing Considerations
Effective hoop function depends on careful consideration of the structure’s dimensions and the spacing between arches. The height and width of the hoop must provide adequate clearance above the plants at their mature height, ensuring that foliage does not contact the protective cover. A minimum of 12 to 18 inches of vertical space above the canopy is generally recommended to allow for proper air circulation and plant growth without restriction.
The width of the garden bed dictates the necessary length of the hoop material, as a wider bed requires a longer pipe to achieve the same apex height. In most home garden applications, a 10-foot length of half-inch diameter pipe creates a functional arch over a standard 4-foot-wide bed. Correct spacing between each hoop is equally important for maintaining the integrity of the tunnel. Arches should be placed no more than 2 to 4 feet apart to ensure the cover remains taut and provides sufficient support against high winds or the weight of collected rain.
Securing the Protective Cover
The final step involves draping the protective material—such as insect netting, frost fabric, or plastic sheeting—over the completed hoop frame. The material should be cut with enough excess length and width to fully cover the frame and extend to the ground. This overlap is necessary for creating a complete seal that effectively excludes pests or traps heat for frost protection.
The cover is secured to the hoop structure using specialized snap clamps or spring clips, which grip the pipe firmly without tearing the fabric. These clips should be placed strategically along the ridge pole and lower sides of the arches to prevent the material from flapping. To anchor the edges, the excess material is weighed down using heavy objects like bricks, lumber, or sandbags. For a complete seal against crawling pests and cold air infiltration, the bottom edges of the cover can be buried in a shallow trench of soil.