How to Make Bare Root Plants for Transplanting

The creation of a bare root plant is a specialized technique used in horticulture to prepare a dormant specimen for easy transport, storage, and transplanting. A bare root plant is a tree, shrub, or perennial harvested from the field with all soil removed from its root system. This method is highly efficient because it dramatically reduces the weight and volume of the plant material, leading to lower shipping and handling costs. Removing the soil also fully exposes the roots for inspection, allowing for easy correction of structural issues before planting.

Selecting the Right Species and Timing the Harvest

The bare root technique is best suited for woody plants and certain perennials that naturally enter a deep state of dormancy. Deciduous trees, fruit stock like apples and cherries, and many ornamental shrubs are excellent candidates for this process because they shed their leaves and suspend active growth. Plants that are actively growing or those that are evergreen, such as certain conifers and broadleaf evergreens, are generally unsuitable because their tissues continue to transpire water, leading to rapid desiccation without soil protection.

Timing the harvest must occur when the plant is fully dormant to ensure survival. This window typically opens in late autumn, after the leaves have completely dropped, and extends through the late winter or very early spring before bud break occurs. Harvesting during this cold period minimizes physiological shock and prevents the loss of crucial stored carbohydrates needed for new growth after transplanting. The soil conditions must also be workable, avoiding frozen ground or excessively wet conditions that can damage the root structures.

Step-by-Step Lifting and Root Preparation

The physical transformation from a field-grown plant to a bare root specimen begins with the careful lifting process. To preserve the maximum number of fine, moisture-absorbing feeder roots, the digging circle must be wide, extending significantly outward from the trunk. For commercial production, a specialized “U-blade” or lifter cuts the roots and loosens the soil, but a gardener can use a sharp spade to dig a wide trench around the plant. The goal is to lift the entire root mass while keeping it intact.

Once lifted, the next step is the gentle removal of the field soil from the root system. This is often done by carefully shaking the plant to dislodge loose soil, followed by rinsing with a gentle stream of water. This washing is crucial to reveal the true structure of the root system and to eliminate soil-borne pests or pathogens that might otherwise be transported. Care must be taken during this process to avoid snapping or tearing the delicate fine roots.

The final preparation stage involves a detailed inspection and root pruning. Any roots that are broken, diseased, or kinked into undesirable circling patterns should be removed using clean, sharp pruning shears. Clean cuts should be made just above the damaged area, ideally at a slight angle, to encourage healthy, outward-growing root development when the plant is replanted. Overly long, thick roots can also be trimmed back to a manageable length, ensuring the final root mass is compact and free of defects.

Maintaining Viability Through Proper Storage

The greatest threat to a prepared bare root plant is desiccation, or drying out, due to the complete lack of soil around the roots. Viability is maintained by immediately placing the roots in a cool, dark, and high-humidity environment. Ideal storage materials include slightly moistened substrates like peat moss, shredded paper, or wood shavings, which should be packed firmly around the entire root system.

The packing material must be damp, similar to a wrung-out sponge, but never soaking wet, as excess moisture encourages the growth of mold and fungus. The entire root ball and packing material should then be wrapped tightly in a moisture-retaining material, typically heavy plastic or polyethylene film, to create a humid microclimate. The plant must be stored in a consistent, cool location, with temperatures maintained between 34 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit, until it is ready for transplanting.