A willow fence is a traditional fencing method prized for its rustic appearance and sustainable material source. These fences, often called wattle fences or hurdles, rely on the natural flexibility of willow rods, or whips, woven between upright posts. A key distinction exists between “dead” willow fences, made from dried and cut rods, and “living” fences, which are planted directly into the ground and continue to grow. This difference determines the materials, construction methods, and long-term maintenance required for the project.
Selecting Materials and Preparing the Site
For a dead fence, choose varieties like Salix viminalis or Salix triandra for their suppleness. Dried rods must be fully re-hydrated by submerging them in water; soak the rods for one day per foot of length to restore flexibility before weaving. A living fence, or “fedge,” requires fresh, dormant cuttings, often six to ten feet long, from varieties known for rooting easily, such as Salix purpurea or Salix alba cultivars.
Site preparation involves clearing a strip of ground at least one foot wide along the intended fence line, removing all competing weeds and grass. The soil should be loosened to a depth of about ten inches to allow easy insertion of the uprights and encourage rooting for living whips. Mark the exact path of the fence with stakes and string to ensure a straight result.
Tools needed for the project include:
- A measuring tape.
- Gloves to protect hands from rough bark.
- A mallet or sledgehammer for driving stakes.
- Sturdy twine or wire to temporarily secure the rods during weaving.
Installing the Structural Framework
For a dead willow fence, the upright supports should be made from durable, rot-resistant wood, such as sweet chestnut or hazel, or thicker, seasoned willow rods that will not sprout. These main support posts are typically spaced between 12 and 24 inches apart; closer spacing creates a denser, more stable finished weave. Drive the uprights deep into the ground, generally 12 to 18 inches, to ensure stability against wind pressure and the tension of the woven rods.
Ensure the posts are perfectly aligned and plumb before weaving, as any misalignment will be amplified in the finished fence. For longer fence runs, a temporary bracing system or guide string can assist in maintaining a straight line and consistent height. For a living fence, the initial uprights are the thickest willow whips themselves, pushed approximately 12 inches into the prepared soil. These planted whips serve as anchors, rooting to become a permanent part of the growing barrier.
Weaving the Fence Panels
Wattle weaving involves interlacing thinner willow rods horizontally between the fixed upright posts, starting at the base. Begin with the thickest end of a rod, pushing it securely against the first upright support. Weave the rod horizontally, passing alternately in front of one upright and behind the next in an over-and-under pattern. This alternating weave provides the structural tension that locks the panel together.
When reaching the end post, bend the rod sharply around the upright and trim the remaining tip or tuck it into the weave. Start the next rod immediately above the first, reversing the pattern to ensure a tight, staggered brickwork effect. To maintain a smooth, continuous panel, overlap new rods slightly, ensuring the thick end meets the thin end seamlessly within the weave. Periodically tap the rods down with a mallet to compress the layers and eliminate vertical gaps.
For a living willow fence, weaving is often done with whips planted at opposing 45-degree angles, creating a diamond lattice pattern, or “fedge.” Secure the points where diagonal whips cross with twine to encourage the living wood to naturally graft together over time, forming a stronger, more unified structure. After weaving, the tips can be woven back down or trimmed. The entire living fence must be thoroughly watered immediately to promote rooting and establishment.
Maintenance and Life Expectancy
A dead willow fence, constructed from cut rods, typically lasts five to ten years, depending on climate and moisture exposure. To extend longevity, treat the fence twice yearly with a wood preservative, such as a 50:50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and turpentine substitute. This treatment helps repel water and slows the natural degradation process.
A living willow fence requires horticultural maintenance, as it is a growing organism. Annual pruning, ideally in late winter or early spring, is necessary to trim back vigorous new growth and maintain the desired shape. New, pliable shoots can be woven back into the structure to increase thickness. Once established, the living structure can last for decades, but requires consistent watering during its first year to ensure rooting.