A bee feeder is a specialized vessel used by beekeepers to supplement a honey bee colony’s natural food supply, typically providing sugar syrup during periods of nectar scarcity. The top feeder is a design placed directly over the upper box of the hive, acting as a large reservoir for liquid feed. This placement is strategically beneficial because it allows the bees to access the sugar syrup from inside the warmth and protection of their hive structure. Building a custom top feeder is a practical and cost-effective way to ensure a colony has the nourishment required to thrive when natural forage is unavailable.
Understanding Top Feeder Design and Function
Top feeders are selected for their distinct operational advantages. A major benefit is high capacity, as a standard design holds between two and four gallons of sugar syrup, significantly reducing refill frequency. This volume is useful for quickly building up colony stores in preparation for winter or during a severe nectar dearth.
The location of the feeder, directly above the brood nest, helps minimize “robbing,” where bees from other colonies attempt to steal the exposed sugar syrup. Since the feed is contained within the hive envelope, it is accessible only to the resident bees, securing the food source from external pests and rival colonies. Refilling a top feeder is also less disruptive to the colony because it requires removing only the outer cover, avoiding the need to open the main brood chamber. This minimal disturbance reduces stress on the bees and allows for efficient feeding management.
Required Materials and Preparation
Constructing a durable wooden top feeder requires materials safe for bees and robust enough to hold liquid. The primary component is lumber, typically 1×6 or 2×6 pine boards, cut to match the external dimensions of the hive body (e.g., a standard 10-frame Langstroth). You will need pieces for the four outer walls and a base, often made of plywood.
For assembly, gather wood glue, exterior-grade screws, and a high-quality sealant. The sealant is important for making the feeder watertight, so choose a non-toxic option like food-grade silicone caulk or marine-grade varnish to coat the interior joints. Tools required include a measuring tape, a saw for precise cuts, a power drill, and clamps to hold pieces securely during assembly. Finally, prepare a small piece of hardware cloth or mesh (usually 8-mesh size). This mesh will be incorporated into the design to prevent bees from drowning in the syrup.
Step-by-Step Feeder Construction
Construction starts by precisely cutting the lumber to form a rectangular box that fits snugly atop the hive body. For a standard 10-frame Langstroth hive, internal dimensions should be approximately 14-3/4 inches by 19-7/8 inches. Cut two longer pieces for the sides and two shorter pieces for the ends, ensuring all cuts are square for a tight fit that minimizes leaks.
Assemble the outer frame by applying wood glue to the joining edges and securing the corners with exterior-grade screws. Pre-drilling pilot holes prevents the wood from splitting. Once the frame is assembled, attach the base material, often thin plywood, to the bottom edge to create the reservoir floor. This bottom piece must be securely fastened with glue and small nails or screws, creating a solid container.
The inner structure requires a partition wall and a bee access point to transform the box into a functional feeder. Install a wooden divider parallel to the long side, creating a narrow channel (typically 3/4 to 1 inch wide) for bee access. Seal this divider into place using wood glue and screws, creating two distinct compartments: a large syrup reservoir and a small, dry access area.
The final element is the bee access tunnel, cut into the bottom edge of the feeder, allowing bees to climb from the hive below into the narrow, dry channel. This opening must be precisely sized to maintain proper bee space, typically a 3/8-inch gap. To prevent bees from drowning, hardware cloth or mesh is stapled across the top of the divider, extending over the syrup compartment. This mesh acts as a ladder, allowing bees to safely access the syrup surface.
Thoroughly sealing the interior of the feeder is essential to ensure it is completely watertight. Apply a generous bead of food-grade silicone caulk to all internal seams and corners, especially the junction between the walls and the floor. After the silicone cures, coat the entire interior wood surface of the reservoir with two to three layers of marine-grade varnish or exterior polyurethane. Allow each coat to dry fully before applying the next. This sealing process prevents the wood from absorbing the sugar syrup and protects the feeder from moisture damage.
Installation and Filling the Feeder
Once the top feeder is dry and sealed, place it directly onto the hive body, replacing the inner cover. Position the access channel directly over the hole intended for bee passage in the hive box below, ensuring bees can easily climb up. The hive’s outer cover is then placed on top of the feeder, creating a sealed environment.
Before filling, prepare the sugar syrup. The common ratio for general feeding is 1:1 (one part granulated white sugar to one part water by weight). For fall feeding, use a thicker 2:1 ratio to encourage storage for winter. Pour the syrup slowly into the large reservoir compartment, avoiding spillage into the bee access channel or outside the hive, which can attract pests or induce robbing.
Monitoring the feed level is straightforward, requiring the beekeeper only to lift the outer cover to check the reservoir. Colonies can consume large volumes of syrup rapidly, sometimes emptying a two-gallon feeder in a few days, so frequent checks are necessary during heavy feeding. Consistent refilling ensures the bees have a continuous supply, supporting brood rearing in the spring or weight gain for successful overwintering.