The “rose tree,” more accurately termed a standard rose, is a horticultural creation that elevates a desired rose variety to eye level, forming a canopy of blooms atop a straight, single stem. This form is achieved through a specialized grafting process where a rose bush (the scion) is joined onto a sturdy, upright stem (the rootstock). The technique requires careful selection of plant material and precise execution to ensure the two different plants fuse successfully and create a cohesive, long-lived specimen. The result is a formal, lollipop-shaped plant that adds vertical interest and classic elegance to a garden or container.
Selecting Components for the Standard
Choosing the right plant components is the fundamental step in creating a standard rose. The trunk, which provides the root system, is selected for its straight growth habit and hardiness, often utilizing species like Rosa multiflora or Rosa canina. The rootstock must be vigorous and compatible with the scion, ensuring the finished tree has a strong foundation and resilience against local soil conditions and diseases. Professional growers frequently use ‘Dr. Huey’ rootstock, as it propagates easily and is a reliable choice for the upright stem.
The desired rose variety, known as the scion, is chosen for its ability to form a dense, attractive canopy at the top of the trunk. Floribundas or miniature roses are preferred because their compact, branching growth pattern develops a rounded “head” more readily than the sparser growth of hybrid teas. For a 36-inch standard, the rootstock cane is typically grown to approximately 38 inches and prepared for two to four scion buds to be grafted around the top for a full, symmetrical crown. Genetic compatibility between the rootstock and the scion is necessary, allowing the vascular systems of the two plants to merge and transport water and nutrients.
Step-by-Step Grafting Technique
The most common method for creating a standard rose is T-budding, where a single vegetative bud is inserted into the rootstock rather than an entire shoot. This technique is favored for its speed and conservation of the scion wood. The process is performed when the rootstock is actively growing, meaning the bark easily ” slips” or separates from the underlying wood, a condition necessary for the union to form.
Preparation begins by selecting a healthy bud from the scion variety, cutting it away with a small, shield-shaped piece of bark and a sliver of wood attached. The thorns and the leaf are removed, leaving a short length of the leaf stem (petiole) to be used as a handle. On the rootstock cane, at the desired height (typically 32 to 40 inches above the ground), a T-shaped incision is made through the bark, cutting deep enough to reach the green cambium layer beneath.
The horizontal cut of the “T” should be approximately one-half inch long, and the vertical cut should extend downward for about one to one-and-a-half inches. Using a specialized grafting knife, the flaps of bark are gently peeled back without tearing to expose the cambium layer. The prepared bud is then carefully slipped beneath these bark flaps, ensuring the bud is oriented correctly and the cambium layers of the scion and rootstock are in direct contact.
The final step involves securing the union tightly with a rubber budding strip, grafting tape, or damp raffia, completely covering the cut surfaces but leaving the bud exposed. This binding material holds the bud in place, prevents drying, and protects it from moisture and pathogens while the vascular tissues fuse. After the bud has successfully integrated and begun to grow, the original rootstock cane is pruned off entirely just above the new growth to dedicate all energy to the developing rose head.
Establishing and Supporting the New Tree
Immediately after grafting, the newly joined plant requires specific care to encourage the successful healing of the union and ensure structural integrity. A standard rose is inherently top-heavy, especially once the scion begins to grow, making a robust staking system necessary for its long-term survival. The trunk must be secured to a heavy-duty stake driven deep into the ground alongside the cane, with the stake ideally reaching the point of the graft union for maximum support.
The trunk should be attached to the support stake at several points using flexible ties, such as specialized tree ties or soft rubber tubing, which will not girdle or cut into the growing wood. Inspecting and adjusting these ties throughout the growing season is important, as the trunk expands in diameter and can be damaged by ties that become too tight. The location for the standard rose should be sheltered, as strong winds can cause the top-heavy canopy to sway, potentially loosening the stake or damaging the graft union before it has fully healed.
The graft union must be protected while it is vulnerable to ensure a successful take. Although the binding material provides initial protection, the newly grafted cane should be monitored closely for any signs of drying or infection. Proper watering is essential for establishment, as the rootstock needs sufficient moisture to support the healing process and the subsequent growth from the scion.
Long-Term Shaping and Winter Care
Once the graft has successfully taken and the scion has begun to grow, long-term maintenance focuses on shaping the canopy and protecting the elevated graft from cold weather damage. Pruning the “head” of the standard rose is a yearly task, performed during the dormant season, to maintain a dense, compact, and balanced spherical shape. This involves removing weak, spindly, or inward-growing canes and shaping the remaining strong wood to encourage outward growth and a full, rounded silhouette.
The unique vulnerability of the standard rose is its high graft union, which is exposed to extreme cold and harsh winter winds, unlike a traditional bush rose where the union is near the soil line. In regions with mild winters, stopping fertilization in late summer and allowing the plant to go dormant may be sufficient, but in colder climates, protection is mandatory. A common method is to construct a temporary enclosure around the canopy, often a cylinder of hardware cloth or heavy paper, which is then filled with insulating material like straw or shredded leaves.
Alternatively, the entire crown can be wrapped in a breathable material such as burlap, which shields the graft from drying winds and temperature fluctuations while allowing air circulation. In extremely cold zones, a more intensive approach known as “tipping” or trenching may be necessary. This involves detaching the rose from its support, gently bending the trunk down to the ground, and covering the entire plant with soil or mulch to ensure the elevated graft survives the deep freeze. This protection should only be applied after a hard frost has occurred, ensuring the rose is fully dormant before covering.