A living willow fence, sometimes called a “fedge,” is created by planting and weaving live willow rods into a structural pattern. Unlike traditional fencing, this structure continues to grow and leaf out, offering a lush, natural boundary that changes with the seasons. It is an aesthetically pleasing and environmentally conscious alternative to wood or metal barriers, utilizing the willow’s remarkable ability to root easily from cuttings.
Essential Materials and Site Preparation
Selecting the correct Salix species is the first step; Salix viminalis (Basket Willow) or Salix purpurea are often recommended for their flexible, straight rods and vigorous rooting ability. You will need one-year-old, straight willow rods, or “whips,” typically six feet or more in length. Source these rods during the dormant season (late autumn through early spring). Keep the rods cool and moist, placing the thick end in water for at least 24 hours before planting to encourage hydration and root bud activation.
Site preparation requires full sun and moisture-retentive soil, as willow thrives in damp conditions. Choose a location at least 33 feet (10 meters) away from drains, septic systems, or building foundations to prevent root damage. Clear a strip of ground approximately 12 inches wide along the fence line, removing all competing grass and weeds. Loosening the soil to a depth of about 10 inches and incorporating compost will improve conditions for rapid root development.
Step-by-Step Construction Methods
Construction begins by establishing the pattern using string and pegs to ensure a straight path. The diamond or criss-cross weave is a common, robust technique that provides structural integrity and allows for natural grafting where the rods intersect. Use a long, thin tool, like a dowel or planting bar, to create deep planting holes without damaging the willow rods.
To create the diamond pattern, insert the first set of willow rods into the ground at a 45-degree angle, pushing them down at least 15 inches (38 cm) to reach consistently moist soil for rooting. Space these rods approximately 10 to 12 inches apart along the fence line, ensuring the thicker, cut end is fully buried.
Next, insert the second set of rods at the opposite 45-degree angle, placing them between the first rods so they cross over and form a lattice shape. Weave the rods alternately in front of and behind the crossing rods as you work up the structure. Secure the intersections temporarily with natural twine or flexible plant ties. These ties hold the shape until the rods naturally fuse together through a process called inosculation.
For a more formal and stable fence, a variation includes inserting thicker, vertical rods every 2 to 3 feet as permanent uprights before weaving the diagonal rods around them. The goal is always to create a tight structure that will strengthen as the willow grows. Once the weaving is complete, the tips of the rods at the top can either be woven together to finish the line or simply trimmed to a uniform height.
Initial Care for Establishment
The first growing season is the most sensitive period, as the rods must expend energy to produce both roots and canopy growth. Consistent moisture is necessary for successful establishment, especially during dry spells. Watering should be thorough and deep, aiming to saturate the soil at least 15 to 20 inches down, rather than merely sprinkling the surface.
A deep drenching once or twice a week is more beneficial than frequent, shallow watering, as it encourages the deep rooting needed for long-term survival. Immediately after planting, apply a thick layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or bark, at least two to three inches deep around the base of the fence. This mulch conserves soil moisture, regulates soil temperature, and reduces competition from weeds and grass, which can choke out the young willow growth.
Willow is palatable to many browsing animals, so protecting new shoots from deer and rabbits is required in the first year. Small wire cages or temporary fencing may be necessary until the structure is sturdy enough to deter browsing. During this initial phase, the willow will sprout side shoots, which should generally be left intact to fuel root development. If a shoot is excessively long or growing outward, it can be woven back into the structure or lightly trimmed, but heavy pruning should be avoided until the dormant season.
Long-Term Shaping and Maintenance
Once the willow fence is established, maintenance shifts from survival care to structural shaping and management of annual growth. The primary maintenance task is performed during the dormant season, between late autumn and early spring, before the buds begin to swell. This annual pruning, often resembling coppicing or pollarding, controls the fence’s height and thickness, preventing it from becoming an unmanageable thicket or growing into full trees.
Any new growth that has emerged since the previous year can be cut back hard to the original rods to maintain the woven pattern’s definition. Alternatively, the longest, most flexible new shoots can be woven back into the existing lattice to reinforce the structure and increase the density of the barrier. This integration of new growth helps the structure strengthen over time, especially as the rods begin to graft together at the intersection points.
If a rod dies, it should be removed, and a new willow whip can be planted in its place during the dormant season to fill the gap. Over time, the temporary ties used during initial construction should rot away. However, any ties beginning to cut into the growing willow must be removed or replaced with a looser tie to prevent girdling. Regular annual maintenance ensures the fence retains its intended shape, remains healthy, and continues to provide a dense, living screen for many years.