Hedgelaying is a traditional woodland management practice used to renovate and maintain older, overgrown hedgerows. This craft rejuvenates hedges that have become “leggy”—thin at the base and bushy only at the top. The process transforms sparse, tall shrubs into a dense, interwoven, living fence. By redirecting the plant’s growth energy, hedgelaying creates a robust, stock-proof barrier near the ground and encourages vigorous new growth from the base, ensuring the long-term health and structural integrity of the hedgerow.
Essential Timing and Equipment
The timing of hedgelaying is governed by the plant’s natural life cycle and regulatory requirements. The ideal period spans from late autumn to early spring, typically between November and March, ceasing before the buds begin to burst. Performing the work during this window aligns with the plant’s winter dormancy, when metabolic activity is significantly reduced. This timing is beneficial because the stems are less brittle, and the lack of leaves allows for easier access to the main stems, maximizing sap flow for regeneration.
This time frame also avoids the nesting season for most native bird species, a regulation that must be respected to protect wildlife habitats. Preparing for the task requires gathering specific tools. The primary tool is a sharp billhook for making precise cuts, though thicker stems may require an axe or a small chainsaw. A mallet, a sharpening stone, and personal protective equipment, such as thick gloves and eye protection, are also necessary.
The Technique of Pleaching
The core action of hedgelaying is known as pleaching, which involves partially severing the upright stems, called “pleachers,” near the ground. The cut is made at an angle, usually 30 to 40 degrees, on the side opposite to the direction the stem will be laid. This incision must be positioned low to the ground, typically between 2.5 and 10 centimeters above the soil level. The goal is to cut through 70 to 80 percent of the stem while carefully preserving a small strip of bark and wood, known as the hinge or heel.
This intact hinge is the living connection that allows the pleacher to survive once bent over, as it contains the sapwood and cambium layers necessary for transporting water and nutrients. The stem is then gently bent over and laid at a consistent, shallow angle, often around 45 degrees. It is important to avoid snapping the hinge during this process, allowing the pleacher to fold over with minimal force. Laying the stems at a slight upward slant helps maintain the upward flow of sap, which is crucial for the stem to remain alive and generate new shoots.
Once laid, the pleachers are interwoven, forming a dense, latticework barrier. The cut face of the stump should be exposed to sunlight, which stimulates the plant’s natural regenerative response. Rolling the laid stems back slightly ensures the sun reaches the cambium, maximizing the potential for strong new shoots to emerge vertically from the base. This technique transforms the existing plant material into a functional, living structure without completely detaching the stems.
Securing the Structure with Stakes and Binders
After the stems have been pleached and laid, the structure requires securing against wind and strain. This is achieved by driving vertical stakes into the ground at regular intervals. Stakes, often made from durable wood like hazel or ash, are typically spaced 50 centimeters to one meter apart. They must be driven deep into the earth, around 50 centimeters, to provide sufficient anchoring for the new fence line.
The stakes serve as the framework, stabilized using long, flexible rods known as “binders.” These binders, frequently sourced from hazel or willow, are woven horizontally along the tops of the vertical stakes. The weaving action locks the laid structure together, preventing the pleachers from rocking or lifting and tearing the hinges. This combination creates a rigid, uniform line that is stock-proof, even before the new growth establishes itself.
Once the binding is complete, the tops of the stakes are trimmed to a uniform height just above the woven binders. This finishing cut is usually made at a 45-degree angle, which helps the wood shed water and prevents rotting. The combined structural elements ensure the laid stems remain at the correct angle to encourage sap flow and direct the emergent vertical shoots.
Expected Regrowth and Early Maintenance
Following the laying process, the plant’s energy is redirected by the wounds to produce strong new shoots. These vigorous vertical growths will emerge primarily from the cut stumps and along the laid stems during the next growing season. The plant’s natural response to the partial severing is to heal and regenerate, leading to a dense explosion of growth at the base. This new growth will eventually become dominant, achieving the initial goal of rejuvenation.
If this regrowth is left untrimmed, the new vertical stems can become too dominant, suppressing the laid pleachers and causing the hedge to revert. To encourage the hedge to thicken laterally, a trimming regime should be implemented the autumn following the laying, or in the second year if growth is slower. This initial trimming helps produce the desired dense, bushy structure by encouraging lateral shoots. Protecting the vulnerable new shoots from browsing animals, such as rabbits or deer, is also necessary, often requiring a temporary protective fence.