Vines like English ivy or wisteria can transform a home’s exterior, yet they often conceal or cause significant damage to the structure itself. These aggressive plants use specialized mechanisms, such as tiny aerial roots or adhesive pads, to anchor themselves securely to surfaces like masonry, mortar, and siding. Over time, the expanding rootlets can penetrate small cracks, widening them and leading to mortar joint deterioration. Vine foliage also traps moisture against the wall, hindering evaporation and creating an environment where wood rot, mold, and mildew can thrive. Removing this growth is necessary to preserve the integrity and appearance of the structure.
Initial Step: Severing the Vine
The first practical step in vine removal is to physically cut the main stems near the plant’s base. Use heavy-duty pruning shears or loppers to sever all primary stems several inches above the ground or where they emerge from the soil. This action immediately isolates the upper growth from its root system, stopping the flow of water and nutrients. This starves the extensive network of vines clinging to the house.
Resist the urge to immediately pull the vines down after cutting them. Live, vigorous vines are often strongly adhered to the wall surface, and yanking them can strip paint, dislodge mortar, or pull away siding. Instead, leave the severed vines attached to the structure for a period, typically one to two weeks. This waiting period allows the foliage to completely dry out, become brittle, and lose its tenacious grip on the building material.
The upper growth will visibly wilt and turn brown as it dies from dehydration. The safer method for structural preservation is to wait until the vine is completely dead and easier to detach. Focus only on cutting the main stem at this stage, leaving the upper, dead growth in place until the next phase of the removal process.
Treating the Root System
Once the main stem is severed, the remaining root structure must be killed to prevent aggressive regrowth from the stump. The most effective method involves applying a systemic herbicide directly to the freshly cut surface of the remaining stump. Systemic herbicides, often containing active ingredients like glyphosate or triclopyr, are translocated downward through the plant’s vascular system to the roots, ensuring the entire organism is killed.
For smaller stems, the entire cut surface should be treated immediately with the concentrated, undiluted herbicide. For larger, woodier stumps, the herbicide application should be concentrated around the cambium layer, the living tissue located just beneath the bark. Applying the herbicide immediately after cutting is important because the plant quickly forms a seal over the wound, which can inhibit absorption. Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment, including gloves and eye protection, when handling concentrated chemicals.
For those preferring non-chemical options, physical removal of the root crown is an alternative, though it can be labor-intensive. Use a shovel to dig out the main root ball and its connecting roots from the soil. If digging is impractical, continuously cutting any new shoots that emerge from the stump will eventually deplete the root system’s stored energy, though this process is much slower than chemical treatment.
Physical Removal of Dead Growth and Residue
After the attached vines have dried out and died, they can be safely removed without causing significant damage to the wall surface. Begin by gently tugging on the dead stems, which should snap away easily from the wall. Use a stiff-bristled brush or a plastic putty knife to scrape away the remaining brittle tendrils and aerial rootlets. Using a wire brush or high-pressure washer is discouraged, especially on brick and mortar, as these tools can erode the surface or damage the mortar joints.
The most stubborn remnants are the tiny, adhesive discs or rootlets that remain embedded in the wall texture, leaving a noticeable residue or stain. For masonry or brick, wetting the area first can soften the residue, making it easier to scrape away. Specialized cleaners or a mild solution of trisodium phosphate (TSP) can be applied to scrub the remaining stains.
On painted or delicate siding, use the gentlest methods first to avoid stripping the finish. A palm sander with fine-grit sandpaper can be used to grind down the rootlets on some surfaces, though this will likely require a fresh coat of paint afterward. The goal is to meticulously remove the organic matter without compromising the wall material underneath, leaving a clean surface for inspection and repair.
Inspecting for Damage and Preventing Recurrence
With the vines and residue removed, the exposed wall surface must be thoroughly inspected for damage. Examine the mortar joints for any cracks or crumbling, which may indicate that the vine rootlets have caused structural compromise. Look for signs of moisture damage, such as peeling paint, discolored siding, or evidence of mold growth resulting from the vine trapping water against the surface. Any compromised mortar may need tuckpointing, and damaged siding or paint should be repaired promptly to prevent further water intrusion.
Long-term prevention ensures the issue does not return. Regularly inspect the foundation and walls, and immediately remove any new sprouts that emerge from the treated root system. If you desire vines for aesthetic purposes, train them to grow on a freestanding trellis or pergola placed at least six inches away from the house exterior. This setup provides the desired visual effect while preventing the vine’s anchoring mechanisms from attaching directly to the home’s surface.