A bush or shrub stump is the remaining portion of a woody plant cut down to ground level, and these remnants can be a nuisance in a landscape. A live stump retains the ability to initiate new growth, leading to persistent sprouting that requires constant maintenance. The exposed wood also creates a tripping hazard and is visually unappealing. The goal of effective stump elimination is to kill the remaining root system and either accelerate its decay or remove the physical wood entirely.
Preparing the Stump for Treatment
Eliminating a bush stump begins with preparing the wood structure to receive the treatment agent. Using a chainsaw, the stump must be cut as flat and close to the soil line as safely possible, minimizing the material that needs to be treated or removed. Cutting the stump low reduces its visibility and overall volume.
Creating reservoirs for the killing or decomposition agent is the next step to ensure maximum penetration. Use a drill with a one-inch diameter bit to bore multiple holes across the face of the stump. These holes should be eight to twelve inches deep, spaced six to eight inches apart, creating a grid pattern. For improved absorption, drill a few angled holes from the side of the stump, sloping downward to intersect with the vertical holes.
Chemical Methods for Stump Elimination
The most rapid method for killing a live bush stump involves the targeted application of systemic herbicides. Active ingredients like glyphosate or triclopyr are formulated to translocate throughout the plant’s vascular system and kill the roots, preventing regrowth. For this method to be most effective, application must occur immediately following the final cut while the sapwood is still fresh and moist.
The living tissue, known as the cambium layer, is a narrow ring of lighter-colored wood just inside the bark, and it is the primary pathway for the herbicide to travel to the root system. For smaller stumps, the herbicide solution is applied across the entire freshly cut surface to ensure saturation. Immediate application is necessary for water-soluble glyphosate products, as the stump surface quickly dries and prevents proper absorption.
If the stump has been cut for an extended period and the surface is dry, an oil-soluble triclopyr ester product is recommended, as it can penetrate the dried wood more effectively. Wear appropriate personal protective equipment, including gloves and eye protection, when handling concentrated herbicides. Targeting the roots in this manner kills the entire underground structure, eliminating the possibility of future suckering or regrowth.
Accelerating Natural Decomposition
A non-toxic approach involves accelerating the natural decay process using materials that encourage microbial and fungal activity. Wood decomposition is limited by the availability of nitrogen, a nutrient essential for the fungi and bacteria responsible for breaking down wood fibers. Introducing a high-nitrogen source, such as a fertilizer rich in urea or ammonium nitrate, boosts the population and activity of these organisms.
The nitrogen-rich material is poured directly into the deep holes drilled into the stump face. Once the fertilizer is in place, the stump must be kept consistently moist to facilitate microbial action. Covering the stump with a plastic tarp or a thick layer of mulch helps retain the necessary moisture and warmth, creating an ideal environment for decay.
Commercial products containing potassium nitrate function similarly, as the nitrate acts as a nitrogen source to hasten decomposition. While this method is chemical-free and less labor-intensive, it requires considerable patience; accelerated decay can take six months to three years, depending on the wood species and stump size. The goal is to soften the wood to a spongy consistency, allowing it to be broken apart easily.
Complete Mechanical Removal
For immediate results, complete physical removal of the stump offers the quickest solution. Smaller bush stumps, typically less than six inches in diameter, can often be removed manually by digging out the root ball. This process involves excavating the soil around the stump’s base and using a mattock or axe to sever the major lateral roots.
For larger, more established stumps, a stump grinder is the most practical mechanical option. This specialized machine uses a rotating cutting wheel to chip away the wood, grinding the stump down below the soil level. For general landscaping, the stump should be ground to a depth of four to six inches beneath the surface, which is sufficient to prevent regrowth and allow for planting grass seed.
If replanting a new shrub or tree in the exact location, the grinding depth should be increased to between six and twelve inches to ensure all major root material is removed. The resulting wood chips must be fully excavated and replaced with fresh soil before planting, as the chips will continue to decompose and deplete nitrogen from the surrounding soil. This method eliminates the stump without waiting for chemical action or natural rot.