Crickets can quickly transform from a background noise of summer nights to a significant outdoor nuisance. These insects are driven toward structures by environmental changes, often seeking food, moisture, or shelter. Beyond the incessant chirping that disrupts sleep, large populations can cause minor damage by feeding on young plants, paper products, and fabrics. A thriving cricket population can also attract secondary pests, serving as a food source for spiders, scorpions, and rodents near the home. Effective control involves immediate population reduction followed by long-term environmental management to prevent their return.
Non-Chemical Control Methods
Initial reduction of cricket numbers can be achieved using methods that capitalize on the insect’s natural behaviors. A highly effective, low-cost solution is the molasses trap, which exploits the cricket’s attraction to sweet odors. To construct this trap, mix three to four tablespoons of molasses with approximately one-half cup of water in a shallow bowl or jar.
The sweet fermenting scent attracts crickets, which jump into the liquid and become trapped and drown. Place these traps in areas of high activity, such as near foundation walls, basements, or window wells, and check them each morning for disposal. For immediate removal of visible crickets congregating in corners or damp areas, a powerful utility vacuum can be used to capture them quickly.
Another direct non-chemical method involves using a simple insecticidal soap spray, which works by contact rather than ingestion. A solution of one tablespoon of liquid soap mixed into one quart of water can be applied directly to crickets. The fatty acids in the soap break down the insect’s protective waxy outer layer, leading to rapid dehydration and death. This type of spray should be used for spot treatments and applied directly to the pests.
Chemical Treatment Strategies
When facing a widespread infestation, commercial chemical treatments offer a strategic approach to control. These products are typically categorized by their application method: granular baits, residual dusts, and liquid perimeter sprays. Granular baits contain an insecticide mixed with a food attractant, making them effective when scattered in garden beds, mulched areas, and around the foundation.
Crickets ingest the bait while foraging, delivering the toxin internally. Baits should be applied thinly to ensure consumption by insects and minimize access by pets or children. Residual dusts are best used for treating cracks, crevices, and wall voids where crickets hide before entering a structure. The dust adheres to the cricket’s body as it moves through the treated area, leading to mortality.
Liquid perimeter sprays create a long-lasting chemical barrier around the home’s exterior foundation, typically applied in a two- to three-foot band. These concentrates are diluted with water and sprayed onto surfaces where crickets crawl. The residual action kills crickets upon contact as they attempt to cross the treated zone. Always read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions precisely, especially concerning application rates and safety precautions.
Habitat Modification for Long-Term Prevention
Shifting the environment to make it less hospitable is the most effective approach for ensuring crickets do not return after initial treatment. Crickets seek out dark, damp, and cluttered areas, making debris removal essential. Remove piles of organic material like grass clippings, leaf litter, and old lumber from the immediate proximity of the home’s foundation.
Firewood should be stored elevated and positioned at least 20 feet away from the house to eliminate a popular harborage site. Managing moisture is equally important, as crickets require high humidity. Fix any leaking outdoor faucets or irrigation heads and ensure that gutters and downspouts direct water away from the foundation to improve drainage.
Controlling outdoor lighting can significantly reduce the number of crickets attracted to the structure at night. Crickets are strongly drawn to light sources that emit shorter wavelengths, such as white bulbs. Switching exterior lighting to yellow-tinted “bug lights” or sodium vapor lamps, which emit longer, less attractive wavelengths, minimizes this lure. Using motion-sensor lighting further reduces the attractiveness of the home by ensuring lights are only active when necessary.