Paper wasps (Polistes) are a common concern when they build their distinct paper nests in high-traffic areas. These insects possess a painful sting and can become territorial, making nests near doors, decks, or eaves a hazard for people and pets. Successfully dealing with a paper wasp problem requires confirming the pest identity and employing targeted methods to eliminate the colony. This guide provides actionable, safe steps for removing the wasps and their nests from your property.
Identifying Paper Wasps and Their Nests
Paper wasps are slender insects, measuring between 3/4 and 1 inch long, with a pronounced, narrow waist. Their coloration often includes shades of brown, red, or yellow, which helps distinguish them from the more brightly colored yellow jackets. A unique visual characteristic is their habit of dangling their long hind legs beneath the body when in flight.
The most reliable way to confirm paper wasps is by examining their nest structure. Unlike the enclosed nests of hornets or the subterranean nests of yellow jackets, the paper wasp creates an open, single-comb nest. This structure is umbrella-shaped and is attached to an overhang by a single stalk.
The nest material is a grayish, papery substance made from chewed wood fibers mixed with the wasp’s saliva. The hexagonal cells of the comb are visible on the underside of the nest, where the larvae are reared. These nests are commonly found in sheltered locations, such as under eaves, porch ceilings, or in attic rafters.
Essential Safety Precautions Before Removal
Prioritizing safety is essential before attempting any removal, as paper wasps can sting multiple times when provoked. The optimal time for treatment is at dusk or after nightfall, or in the very early morning, when cooler temperatures make the wasps less active and most workers have returned to the nest. Never use a standard flashlight, as wasps are attracted to the light source; instead, use a headlamp covered with a red film.
Protective equipment must cover all exposed skin. Wear thick coveralls or multiple layers of heavy clothing, ensuring pant legs are tucked into thick socks and seams are taped shut around the ankles and wrists. Crucially, the face must be shielded by a beekeeper’s veil or similar mesh screen, as wasps tend to target the head and face.
In the event of a sting, immediately leave the area to avoid further attack. Wasps can sting repeatedly and may release alarm pheromones that attract the rest of the colony. If you have a known allergy, an epinephrine auto-injector must be readily accessible for immediate use upon signs of a systemic reaction, such as difficulty breathing. For a non-allergic reaction, wash the area, apply ice to reduce swelling, and monitor for worsening symptoms.
Direct Elimination Methods for Individuals and Small Nests
For easily accessible and relatively small nests, a specialized commercial aerosol spray is a highly effective, immediate solution. These products are formulated with a jet-stream nozzle, allowing the operator to stand 15 to 20 feet away to saturate the nest from a distance. The insecticide should be aimed directly at the center of the nest and the wasps, ensuring a thorough application to eliminate the adult workers and the queen inside.
A non-chemical alternative for small, exposed nests is a strong solution of water and liquid dish soap. The soap dramatically reduces the water’s surface tension, allowing the mixture to penetrate the tiny breathing pores (spiracles) on the wasp’s body, causing suffocation. A mixture of about two tablespoons of liquid dish soap per quart of water, applied with a spray bottle or garden sprayer, is effective. This method is best applied at night, drenching the entire nest until it is dripping wet.
When a paper wasp colony is nesting in a concealed location, such as a wall void or under fascia boards, chemical dust insecticides are the proper treatment choice. These fine powders, often containing active ingredients like deltamethrin or pyrethrin, are applied directly into the entrance hole using a bulb duster. Foraging wasps carry the dust particles on their bodies as they enter the nest, inadvertently contaminating the entire colony, including the queen and larvae.
It is necessary to leave the entry point open for several days after applying the dust. This allows the contaminated wasps to continue moving in and out of the void. Sealing the hole too soon can trap the irritated wasps, forcing them to chew a new exit into the interior of the home.
Indoor Control
For the occasional single wasp found indoors, a fly swatter or a quick spray of the soap and water mixture provides immediate physical control. This does not address the source colony outside.
Long-Term Nest Eradication and Prevention
Once the nest has been treated and all wasp activity has ceased, wait a minimum of 24 to 48 hours before physical removal. This waiting period ensures that all returning foragers have been neutralized by the residual insecticide. Use a long-handled tool to detach the nest, immediately placing the structure into a sealed plastic bag for disposal.
The attachment location should be scraped and cleaned to remove residual pheromones that might attract a new queen the following season. Paper wasps do not reuse the exact same nest, but they often build a new one nearby.
To prevent re-nesting, perform proactive structural exclusion by sealing potential entry and attachment points. Inspect the exterior for gaps and cracks, especially around window frames, under eaves, and where utilities enter the structure. Use high-quality silicone caulk to seal small crevices, and utilize copper mesh or steel wool combined with expanding foam for larger openings.
Prevention Methods
Deterrents can be employed early in the spring before a new queen chooses a nesting site. Hanging a fake or decoy nest in a sheltered area can discourage new colonies, as paper wasps are territorial. Secure all outdoor waste bins and promptly clean up outdoor dining areas to reduce attraction from uncovered food and trash.