A woody shrub or bush with an established root system presents a challenge when complete removal is the goal. Simply cutting the plant down above the soil line is ineffective because the remaining root mass stores energy, leading to vigorous regrowth. To truly eliminate the bush and ensure it does not return, the method must focus on destroying or physically extracting the subterranean root structure. This requires a systematic approach, whether through manual labor, targeted chemical application, or long-term non-chemical alternatives.
Physical Removal Methods
The most immediate method of total elimination is the physical removal of the entire root ball, often called grubbing. This process begins by cutting the bush back to a low stump to clear the working area and provide better access to the ground. Removing a mature root ball requires digging around the stump to expose the main roots, which can be difficult due to their depth and spread.
Appropriate tools for this labor-intensive job include a heavy-duty shovel, a mattock or grub hoe for slicing through compacted soil and roots, and a root saw or axe for severing larger woody roots. For safety, wear sturdy footwear, gloves, and eye protection when using sharp or heavy tools. Once the root ball is sufficiently loosened and cut free, it can be rocked and lifted out of the ground.
Chemical Application Techniques
For many homeowners, the most effective and least physically demanding method involves using systemic herbicides applied directly to the stump. This “cut-stump” treatment is more successful than general foliar spraying because it bypasses the leaves and delivers the chemical directly to the circulatory system that feeds the roots. The process requires cutting the trunk or stem as close to the ground as possible, ideally within a few inches.
Immediately after the cut is made, a concentrated systemic herbicide, such as glyphosate or triclopyr, must be applied to the fresh surface before the plant can seal the wound. The herbicide should be focused on the cambium layer—the light-colored, living tissue just inside the bark—as this is the primary pathway for the chemical to travel down to the roots. For smaller stumps less than four inches in diameter, the entire cut surface should be treated.
Triclopyr is available in both water-soluble and oil-soluble forms. The oil-based version allows for a basal bark treatment on smaller stems, where the herbicide is applied to the lower 12 to 18 inches of bark. Always use personal protective equipment, such as gloves and eye protection, and strictly follow the product label instructions to ensure safety and prevent environmental contamination.
Non-Chemical Alternatives
Alternatives to chemical treatments focus on eliminating the root system over an extended period without synthetic herbicides. One method is solarization or smothering, which involves covering the cut-down stump and surrounding soil with heavy, opaque material like black plastic sheeting or thick cardboard. This process starves the remaining plant tissue of sunlight and moisture, slowly killing the roots. This method requires patience, as it can take six months to a full year for the root system to expire.
A less recommended alternative involves drilling holes into the cut stump and filling them with high concentrations of rock salt or horticultural vinegar. While these substances are common household items, they act as non-selective contact killers that can dramatically alter the soil chemistry. Excessive use of salt, in particular, can render the surrounding area barren for years by preventing other plants from establishing.
Disposal and Prevention of Regrowth
After the bush is confirmed dead, the remaining stump and above-ground material must be managed. If chemicals were used, the dead plant material may require special disposal, such as landfilling, rather than composting or chipping, to avoid spreading residual herbicide. The area must also be monitored closely for signs of suckering—the emergence of new shoots from remaining root fragments.
Suckers are the plant’s attempt to use its stored root energy to survive the trauma of being cut down, and they must be addressed quickly to prevent re-establishing. Small suckers should be pulled off the root cleanly rather than cut, as cutting can sometimes encourage more regrowth. If a systemic herbicide was used on the original stump, new suckers can be spot-treated by dabbing concentrated herbicide directly onto the freshly cut stem of the sprout.