Rabbits quickly exploit weaknesses in a perimeter to access tender plants and grasses. The primary vulnerability in most fencing is the “digging zone,” the unprotected soil directly beneath the bottom rail. Rabbits dig beneath a barrier either to find shelter or to reach food sources they detect on the other side. A single entry point can lead to significant damage across an entire yard or garden area.
Installing Physical Barriers Along the Fence Line
The most permanent strategy for preventing rabbit intrusion involves structural modification of the fence line. This requires installing a durable, underground extension that physically blocks a rabbit’s burrowing path. The material should be galvanized hardware cloth or welded wire mesh with openings no larger than one inch, as smaller rabbits can squeeze through larger gaps.
A simple technique is the trenching and burying method. This involves digging a trench 6 to 12 inches deep along the fence line and burying the bottom edge of the wire mesh vertically. Once the mesh is secured to the existing fence and the trench is backfilled, the vertical barrier discourages burrowing attempts. This depth is sufficient to deter the common cottontail rabbit, which does not dig extensive burrows.
For the highest degree of security, the L-foot or apron method uses the rabbit’s natural digging instinct against it. To implement this, the wire mesh is buried 6 inches below ground and then bent outward at a 90-degree angle, extending horizontally for another 6 to 12 inches away from the fence base. A rabbit attempting to dig directly down next to the fence will quickly encounter this horizontal wire apron. This forces the animal to start digging away from the fence line, where it soon hits the buried barrier.
Using Surface Obstructions and Ground Treatments
When deep trenching is not feasible due to labor constraints or underground utilities, surface obstructions can provide a lower-labor alternative or supplement. These methods focus on creating a ground surface that is difficult or uncomfortable for a rabbit to break through. One approach is laying a flat wire barrier, which involves extending a strip of wire mesh, typically 12 to 18 inches wide, directly onto the ground surface along the fence line.
This flat mesh apron is secured with heavy-duty landscape staples or stakes to prevent rabbits from lifting the edges. The animal is then unable to get a foothold to begin digging right at the fence base. While less secure than a buried apron, this surface treatment is effective because rabbits often prefer to start a burrow immediately adjacent to a vertical surface.
Alternatively, a heavy ground cover of uncomfortable material can treat the digging zone. Placing a dense layer of sharp crushed stone, heavy gravel, or tightly fitting concrete pavers along the perimeter physically obstructs digging. These materials make the soil inaccessible and create an unpleasant surface for the rabbit’s sensitive feet. For this method to be effective, the material must be laid densely enough so that no soft soil is exposed near the fence line.
Employing Sensory and Taste Repellents
Non-physical methods rely on discouraging rabbits through smell and taste, offering an easy-to-apply defense that requires consistent reapplication. Commercial liquid repellents often contain putrescent egg solids, which mimic the scent of decaying matter or a predator’s territory. They also incorporate capsaicin, which creates an unpalatable taste when a rabbit attempts to browse.
These commercial products adhere to plants and soil but must be reapplied every 30 to 60 days, or immediately following heavy rain. Homemade and natural deterrents utilize scents the animals dislike, such as garlic, mint oil, or predator urine. The strong odors signal danger or an undesirable foraging environment, prompting the rabbit to seek food elsewhere.
Motion-activated devices offer a non-chemical sensory deterrent by startling the animals. Motion-activated sprinklers deliver a sudden spray of water, while ultrasonic devices emit high-frequency sound waves that are irritating to rabbits. These methods are localized and can become less effective over time if the rabbits habituate to the stimulus, making them best suited as a supplementary component to a physical barrier.