Chipmunks are burrowing rodents that can quickly become a nuisance in a cultivated space, destroying flower bulbs, eating seeds, and undermining structures with their extensive tunnel systems. Successfully protecting your garden involves a comprehensive strategy that addresses why chipmunks are present, how to physically block their access, and ways to make the environment less appealing. This guide provides detailed, actionable steps to safeguard your plants and property.
Eliminating Attractants
The foundation of chipmunk control involves removing the primary reasons they are drawn to your garden: readily available food and secure shelter. Chipmunks are omnivores, and their diet includes seeds, nuts, fruits, and insects. Bird feeders are common attractants, as spilled seed, particularly sunflower seeds, provides an easy, high-calorie food source they collect and cache.
All fallen berries, nuts, or fruits should be diligently cleared from the ground. Pet food left outside, especially overnight, also serves as an open invitation and should be secured in rodent-proof containers indoors.
Eliminating potential hiding spots is equally important, as chipmunks seek cover from predators. Woodpiles, dense brush, leaf litter, and rock piles provide ideal sheltered locations for burrows or unseen travel. By removing these ground covers and keeping areas around foundations clear, you reduce the number of safe havens available. Reducing clutter makes the environment less hospitable.
Exclusion Methods Using Physical Barriers
Physical exclusion is the most reliable long-term solution for protecting specific garden areas. Because chipmunks are small and determined burrowers, any barrier must be made of a material they cannot chew through or squeeze past. The material of choice is galvanized hardware cloth, specifically with a mesh size of one-quarter inch.
To protect garden beds, fences must be buried deep into the soil to prevent tunneling underneath. The most effective technique is the L-shaped barrier: the hardware cloth is buried vertically for at least six inches and then bent outward horizontally for another six to twelve inches. This design creates a subterranean barrier that frustrates their efforts to bypass the fence.
Vulnerable plants, like newly planted bulbs, should be protected individually inside wire cages constructed from the same hardware cloth. The bottom of raised beds or large planters can be secured with a layer of this mesh before adding soil. For above-ground protection, the fence height should extend at least two to three feet, especially if adjacent to objects they can climb.
Sensory Deterrents and Repellents
Deterrents work by making the garden environment unpleasant, relying on their strong sense of smell and taste. Commercial repellents often contain capsaicin, the active compound in chili peppers, which irritates the chipmunk’s mouth and nasal passages upon contact or tasting. These taste-based products can be sprayed directly onto non-edible plants or surfaces they are damaging, but they require reapplication after rain or watering.
Scent-based repellents mimic the presence of a predator, triggering the chipmunk’s natural instinct to flee. Predator urine, such as that from foxes or coyotes, can be applied around the perimeter of the garden or near known burrow entrances. Alternatively, strong natural scents can be used, including concentrated peppermint oil, garlic, or granular dried blood meal.
Noise-based devices like ultrasonic emitters or motion-activated sprinklers offer variable effectiveness and are generally less reliable than physical barriers or scent-based methods. Chipmunks may habituate to constant noises. These sensory methods are best used as a temporary measure or to supplement a comprehensive exclusion strategy.
Humane Removal and Legal Context
When prevention and deterrence fail, live trapping offers a final option for removing persistent chipmunks from a limited area. Small, cage-style live traps, approximately ten to twenty inches long, are suitable for these small rodents and should be baited with an attractant like peanut butter or sunflower seeds placed behind the trigger plate. Traps must be checked frequently to minimize stress and exposure for the captured animal.
It is imperative that anyone considering trapping first contact their state and local wildlife management agencies to understand the legal requirements for handling nuisance wildlife. In many jurisdictions, the relocation of trapped animals is highly regulated or strictly prohibited due to the risk of spreading disease and the low survival rate of animals released into unfamiliar territories. Relocated chipmunks often struggle to find food and shelter in an established population’s territory, which can lead to death.
State regulations may require that a trapped animal be euthanized or transferred to a licensed Problem Animal Control agent. If relocation is permitted, wildlife experts recommend moving the animal at least five miles away. Adhering to local laws ensures the removal process is handled responsibly.