The Easter lily is a perennial bulb often purchased as a temporary potted plant to celebrate the holiday. While these lilies are typically “forced” to bloom outside of their natural summer cycle, it is entirely possible to extend the plant’s life far beyond the spring season. Preserving the lily requires understanding the distinct care requirements for its three major phases: active bloom indoors, the post-bloom transition, and long-term outdoor establishment. Focusing on the bulb’s nutritional needs can encourage it to return and potentially rebloom in subsequent years.
Essential Care While the Lily is Indoors
The goal during the indoor phase is to prolong the bloom period and maintain the health of the foliage. The potted lily requires bright, indirect sunlight, avoiding the intensity of direct afternoon light. Placing the plant in harsh, direct sun can scorch the petals and shorten the overall blooming time.
Cool temperatures are beneficial for extending the life of the flowers. Ideally, the plant should be kept where daytime temperatures are maintained between 65–75°F, with cooler nighttime temperatures dropping to 55–65°F. This lower temperature range helps to slow the fading process.
Proper watering is important, as the densely packed roots are susceptible to root rot if the soil remains soggy. Water the plant thoroughly only when the top inch or two of the soil feels dry to the touch. Ensure that any decorative foil or sleeve is removed so water can drain completely. To prevent the plant from wasting energy on seed development, gently pinch or cut off the spent flowers immediately after they fade.
Transitioning the Lily After Blooms Fade
Once all the flowers have dropped, the focus shifts entirely to preserving the green leaves and stem, as they are actively photosynthesizing and storing energy in the underground bulb. Do not cut back the foliage at this stage, as the leaves must remain intact to nourish the bulb for the next growing season. Continue providing the plant with bright light and consistent moisture, though you can begin to gradually reduce the frequency of watering.
The plant can remain indoors until the danger of the last spring frost has passed, typically when nighttime temperatures consistently stay above 55°F. Before permanent planting, the lily must be hardened off by gradually acclimating it to outdoor conditions over about a week. Start by placing the pot in a shady, sheltered outdoor spot for a few hours a day, slowly increasing the time and sun exposure to prevent the leaves from burning.
Planting and Maintaining the Lily Outdoors
After acclimation, the lily is ready to be moved from its confining pot into a permanent garden location. Select a planting site that receives full sun or partial shade. The soil must be well-draining, as the bulb will quickly rot in heavy, waterlogged conditions; amending the area with organic matter like compost can be beneficial.
The bulb should be planted deeply, with its top placed approximately six inches below the soil surface. This depth provides stability for the tall stem. Continue to water the newly planted lily regularly throughout the summer to keep the soil moist but not saturated.
The original green foliage will naturally yellow and die back in the late summer or fall. Only at this time should the stem be cut back to the soil line. Apply a thick layer of insulating mulch over the planting site to protect it from freezing temperatures. With successful overwintering, the Easter lily bulb will develop new growth and typically rebloom the following summer, usually in June or July.