A drip irrigation emitter is a device designed to regulate the flow of water, delivering it slowly and directly to the plant’s root zone. This targeted delivery mechanism is a highly efficient watering method that helps conserve water by minimizing loss from evaporation and runoff. Emitters are integral to the system because they ensure a consistent and measured volume of water reaches the plants, preventing both overwatering and soil waterlogging. By providing water precisely where it is needed, drip emitters promote healthier root growth and reduce the conditions that encourage fungal diseases and weed growth.
Selecting the Right Emitter and Tools
The selection of the appropriate emitter type is the first step in setting up an effective drip system. Pressure-compensating (PC) emitters are often preferred for landscapes with slopes or very long tubing runs because they maintain a uniform flow rate despite variations in water pressure. This consistency is achieved through an internal diaphragm that adjusts to pressure changes, ensuring every plant receives the same amount of water. Non-pressure compensating emitters are suitable for short, flat runs where pressure fluctuations are not a concern.
The Gallons Per Hour (GPH) rating of the emitter should be carefully matched to the native soil type to ensure proper water absorption and deep saturation. For instance, sandy soils, which drain quickly, require a higher flow rate, typically around 2 GPH, to prevent the water from moving straight down past the root zone. Conversely, dense clay soils absorb water very slowly, making a lower flow rate of 0.5 GPH or 1 GPH more suitable to prevent surface runoff. Essential installation tools include a specialized hole punch tool, cutters for trimming the main line, and Goof Plugs to seal mispunched holes.
Preparing the Main Drip Line
Before installing the emitters, the main drip line, typically 1/2-inch or 3/4-inch poly tubing, must be properly prepared and laid out. It is beneficial to let the coiled tubing sit in the sun for a period, as the warmth increases the material’s flexibility, making it easier to unroll and maneuver through the garden layout. Once the tubing is flexible, it can be laid out along the plant beds and cut to the appropriate length for the irrigation zone.
The main line must be flushed before connecting any emitters. This involves opening the end cap or valve at the termination point and running water through the system at full volume. Flushing clears out debris, dirt, or plastic shavings that may have entered the tubing during manufacturing or cutting. Clearing this debris prevents immediate blockage in the tiny internal pathways of the new emitters.
Step-by-Step Emitter Installation
The physical installation process begins by marking the exact locations on the main tubing where water is needed, usually near the base of individual plants. Using the specialized hole punch tool, a clean hole is created in the wall of the poly tubing at each marked spot. It is generally recommended to place the hole on the top side of the tubing to reduce the chance of debris settling into the opening.
Next, the barbed inlet of the individual emitter is firmly pressed into the freshly punched hole, creating a tight, watertight seal. If a plant is located a short distance away from the main line, a piece of smaller 1/4-inch micro-tubing is attached to a barbed connector that is inserted into the main line. The emitter is then attached to the end of the micro-tubing and positioned near the plant’s root zone. If a mistake is made and a hole is punched in the wrong location, a Goof Plug is simply inserted into the hole to seal it, maintaining system pressure.
Testing the System and Preventing Clogs
Once all emitters are installed, turn on the water source slowly to pressurize the system and begin testing. This initial flow allows for inspection of all connection points, checking for immediate leaks. Any minor leaks can often be fixed by reseating the emitter or, if the hole is too large, sealing it with a Goof Plug and punching a new hole nearby. The flow rate of each emitter should be observed to ensure water is dripping as expected, which confirms the system pressure is adequate.
Long-term functionality relies on preventing clogs, which are caused by sediment, mineral buildup, or organic matter. Installing an appropriate filter, such as a screen or disc filter, at the main water source is a highly effective measure to remove physical contaminants before they reach the tiny emitter openings. Additionally, regular maintenance involves periodically flushing the system by removing the end caps to clear accumulated sediment.