A do-it-yourself (DIY) irrigation system is a network of pipes, hoses, and emitters designed to deliver water directly to plants without manual effort. Automating the watering schedule provides unparalleled convenience and ensures plants receive consistent moisture, even when the homeowner is away. Targeted delivery to the root zone minimizes runoff and evaporation, promoting healthier plant growth while potentially lowering utility costs compared to traditional hose watering.
Selecting the Appropriate Irrigation Style
Designing an effective watering system begins by choosing the correct style based on the planting area. Drip irrigation systems are the preferred choice for areas like vegetable gardens, flower beds, and individual potted plants. This method delivers water slowly through small emitters directly to the base of the plant, maximizing absorption and preventing moisture loss to the air or surrounding weeds.
Soaker hoses represent a variation, allowing water to seep out along the entire length of the porous hose, making them suitable for closely spaced rows or dense groundcover. For larger, continuous areas like turfgrass or expansive groundcover, low-volume sprinklers or micro-sprays are often more practical. These devices cover a broader area with a gentle spray pattern, which is more efficient for uniform coverage than attempting to use drip lines across a vast expanse of lawn.
Pre-Installation Planning and Design
Successful installation relies on meticulous planning, beginning with a detailed map of the area to be watered. This layout should include the location of the water source, all planting areas, and any obstructions, such as walkways or buried utility lines. Before purchasing any materials, it is necessary to determine the water pressure and flow rate available from the source, which is typically a hose bib or spigot.
The water flow rate, measured in Gallons Per Minute (GPM), is calculated by timing how long it takes to fill a five-gallon bucket. Dividing five by the time in minutes yields the GPM, which dictates the total capacity of the system. Residential systems often deliver between five and twelve GPM, and this calculation determines how many irrigation devices can run simultaneously without a significant drop in pressure.
Flow rate calculation leads to the concept of zoning, which divides the total area into smaller, manageable sections. Zoning is necessary because the total GPM required for all emitters running at once usually exceeds the GPM capacity of a single residential spigot. Each zone can then be programmed to water independently, ensuring that areas with different requirements, such as a dry sunny lawn and a shady flower bed, receive customized irrigation schedules.
Necessary Tools and Components
A functioning irrigation system requires several specialized components that work together to regulate water delivery. The system begins with a backflow preventer, which stops irrigation water from siphoning back into the home’s potable water supply. Immediately following this is the pressure regulator, a device that reduces standard household pressure (often exceeding 50 PSI) down to the 25 to 30 PSI required for drip tubing and emitters to function correctly.
A screen filter is installed downstream from the regulator to catch fine sediment and debris that could clog the small openings of the emitters. Other necessary components include:
- The main distribution line, typically polyethylene tubing in 1/2-inch or 3/4-inch diameters, which connects the water source to the planting areas.
- A variety of connectors, including tees, elbows, and couplings, used to route the tubing around corners and split paths.
- A timer or controller, which acts as the brain, automating the watering cycles based on the specific needs of each zone.
Step-by-Step Installation and System Testing
Installation begins by securely connecting the assembled head unit (backflow preventer, pressure regulator, and filter) to the water source. Once the head unit is attached, the main distribution tubing is laid out according to the pre-drawn design map. For permanent installations, the tubing should be buried in shallow trenches, typically six to twelve inches deep, to protect the lines from UV degradation and accidental damage.
As the tubing is laid, it is helpful to leave some slack to account for expansion and contraction caused by temperature fluctuations. Emitters or sprinkler heads are then attached along the tubing at the planned intervals, ensuring they are positioned close to the plant root zones. Before connecting the final emitters, the main lines must be thoroughly flushed by temporarily opening the ends to allow water to run freely, clearing out any dirt or plastic shavings that accumulated during the installation process.
After flushing, the end caps are secured, and the system is pressurized for initial testing. During this test, the entire network must be closely inspected for leaks at connection points, and the coverage pattern of each emitter or sprinkler head should be verified. The final step involves programming the electronic timer, setting the start times, duration, and frequency for each zone based on plant type, soil condition, and seasonal water requirements.