A deer fence is a tall, physical barrier designed to keep deer out of a protected area without causing them harm. Unlike a standard perimeter fence, an effective exclusion system must account for the animal’s athleticism and behavior. A poorly installed fence will be easily breached, wasting time and resources. Achieving a reliable barrier requires precise planning, a stable foundation, and specialized techniques to counter a deer’s natural tendencies.
Planning and Selecting the Right Materials
The primary feature of a functioning deer fence is its height, which must counter the animal’s jumping ability. Most white-tailed deer can easily clear a six-foot obstacle, making a minimum fence height of 7.5 to 8 feet necessary for reliable exclusion.
This height presents a physical barrier and acts as a psychological deterrent. Deer are hesitant to jump a tall fence without a clear line of sight to a safe landing zone. For areas with high deer pressure or agile species like mule deer, increasing the height to ten feet provides an added margin of security.
Material selection balances visibility, strength, and longevity. Polypropylene mesh, a UV-stabilized plastic netting, is cost-effective and nearly invisible. Its low visibility enhances the psychological effect, but it is less durable and requires more maintenance than wire options.
High-tensile woven wire, often galvanized and coated black, offers superior strength and permanence, resisting impacts and chewing. Before purchase, plan the fence line by pinpointing the location of all corner, end, and gate posts. These posts bear the maximum load and require the most robust support.
Preparing the Ground and Setting Support Posts
A stable fence begins with meticulous ground preparation, starting by clearing all brush and debris along the perimeter line. Setting a straight fence line is best achieved using a string line stretched taut between the planned corner and end posts. Terminal posts must be substantially anchored to withstand the tension applied by the fencing material. Posts should be buried one-third of their total length, or below the local frost line, whichever depth is greater.
For a tall, high-tension fence, corner and gate posts should be set four feet deep, typically in concrete, to prevent leaning under stress. Line posts, which primarily hold the mesh aloft, can be set shallower, usually 24 to 36 inches deep. Line posts should be spaced between 10 and 15 feet apart, with closer spacing needed in areas prone to heavy snow loads. Corner and end posts require diagonal or H-bracing systems to transfer the outward pull of the tensioned wire into the ground. Lean the terminal post slightly away from the direction of the fence line tension before anchoring it, ensuring it settles into a vertical position once the mesh is fully strained.
Securing the Fencing Mesh or Wire
The integrity of the barrier is established when the mesh or wire is securely attached and properly tensioned across the support posts. Installation begins at a braced corner post, unwinding the material along the fence line before permanent attachment. If using high-tensile wire mesh, secure it using heavy-gauge, galvanized barbed staples driven into wooden posts at a slight angle.
These staples should not be driven completely tight against the wire. A small gap must remain to allow the wire to expand and contract with temperature fluctuations without breaking or pulling the post.
Polypropylene mesh is lighter and more flexible, so it does not require the same tensioning system as high-tensile wire. It is commonly secured to posts and horizontal tension cables using UV-resistant self-locking ties or specialty hog rings. Adequate tension is necessary to prevent the fence from sagging between posts, which creates a weak point a deer could exploit. Tensioning is accomplished with specialized tools like gripples for wire or ratchet systems for cable. Ensure the material remains taut from top to bottom, pulling the mesh until it is firm but not so tight that it strains the posts out of plumb.
Specialized Techniques for Deer Proofing
The final steps focus on eliminating the two most common failure points: the ground gap and the barrier’s visibility. Deer often try to push or crawl under a barrier rather than attempt a high jump, making the bottom seal especially important. This vulnerability is mitigated by burying the bottom six inches of the fence material directly into the soil, or by creating a ground skirt. A ground skirt involves folding the bottom edge of the mesh outward onto the ground and pinning it down with landscape staples, rocks, or timber.
For fences constructed of dark, thin mesh, adding visual aids is a simple but effective technique. Tying strips of white ribbon or reflective tape along the top or middle of the fence increases the barrier’s visibility, reinforcing the psychological deterrent.
In locations where deer pressure is extreme, alternative configurations may be necessary. An angled fence slopes outward at a 45-degree angle. A double-fence system uses two shorter parallel fences spaced four to six feet apart. Both configurations exploit the deer’s poor depth perception and reluctance to jump into an enclosed space.